www.imoc.co.uk

Yeah good point, I've just stripped my head down so i was thinking about how i got them out...obviously not the best way in this situation...

Once you have the cams out they just pop off, shouldn't take very long at all. Would be nice to have a torque wrench handy for the bearing caps and possibly a new rocker cover gasket if yours is old..

Sounds like I should have bought some! Where do you get it from?

I found on the head the aluminum sticks in the threads which makes it even worse, only 1 more to go though

Arghh not more seized stuff!

I've just spent 2 hours battling with manifold studs which snapped off on the the head!

Ended up welding a nut to the stud a few times which eventually got it off!

Cheers for the pics though, i'll have a closer look next week.

Great stuff, cheers people

Funny thing is once you prize the rust off there is no lip but for the sake of £30 i'm gonna get new discs!

Here's the pics, it's the same on the other side of the car as well: These are of the inner surface. http://www.diycinema.co.uk/imghost/b1.jpg http://www.diycinema.co.uk/imghost/b2.jpg As you can see the inner surface looks a bid odd? The outer surface is fine, nice and smooth and no ridge running o...

Where's it coming from?

Try pressing a wrench or something solid between different parts of the engine and your ear.

Test each cylinder on the rocker cover. It amplifies the noise and makes it easier to locate.

Yeah you have to use a puller, i'd recommend the 2 prong one as the threads on the pulley had long since rusted out on mine...




Had to put nuts behind using a screwdriver, well fiddly!

I had exactly the same problem after 3 of my pistons blew up. I was not pleased at all!

In the end i just kept trying to turn the key back and forth and it eventually worked it's way loose. I think maybe the boot carpet got stuck somewhere.

Here's my head...



Still waiting on the exhaust valves to get ground before i put it back together...

I've just been cleaning my head up and i don't have any of those cracks like you have round your exhaust valve. What did the seats look like? Did you have anything reground? I've heard too much lapping can make the faces concave. I read somewhere you only need to do it for a few seconds, and if that...

those things always break! I've got 2 and they've both snapped at one time, current one has been glued back with super glue! Probably not very good but it seems strong enough and has been like it since i got the car a few months back

SimonPearse wrote:
Its unusual for detonation to damage the crank- the pistons fail first.

I did the experiment, 3 cracked pistons, one perfect crank!

different fuels can give different mpg, not necessarily linked to the octane rating

ebay is pretty cheap!

yeah, have a look in the BGB, it's got loads of tests you can do to figure out what's wrong with it

That's the proper way to do it, it's easier than it sounds but to get the hub nut off you need a deep socket and very big bar.

You can often bodge them with split boots which you glue round but if it's been exposed to dirt you really need to take the axle off and clean it properly.

Hmm.. i've had a think about this and i reckon i won't end up tuning it much in the foreseeable future so probably best to stick with the stock pistons and save the cash for beer

valve float?? is this the same as valve bounce?? which fitting uprated/double springs helps eliminate not taking the p1$$ mate just wondering if its jsut a different term meaning the same or if it is actually somehting else simmo Here you go mate, slightly different things by the looks of it: http:...

Agreed, there's nothing wrong with redlineing the engine but it only makes sense if the peak power output is there. On my Honda it used to peak at redline and i used to shift there all the time with no problems. Aftermarket ECUs can be pretty dangerous by raising the rev limit, you can get valve flo...