www.imoc.co.uk

Wouldn't catch me buying a rear clip with no warranty

They are for the control arm, as per the diagram in the auction.

If you are referring to the rear tie bar joint in the hub, they aren't available separately - you have to buy the whole hub

If you're looking at the pair on eBay, they are for the 16mm thick rear discs, so will fit your G-Ltd.

Give me a call - 07710 648257 and i'll go through it with you.

No offence intended, but i think your mate is talking total bs.

As for MrT discounting from £170 to £90??? I don't think so!

However, i look forward to your update...

Yep, seen this once before. Not sure exactly how common a problem it is though. Also, whilst looking in that direction, check for the rubber cushioning ring that sits in the spring cup under the spring.

And thanks for the mention pnjmcc - glad you got everything sorted

On an N/A, the front pipe goes from the exhaust manifold to the cat (if fitted) or if not, to the rear exhaust box section, and about half way along is the flexi section. As i said, when i last bought one it was MrT only, and about £170. I strongly suspect your guy at twitfit has got it wrong. If no...

If you're referring to the exhaust downpipe, that's around £170 from MrT

I am sure Fonzy for one would join me on this challenge, but i have yet to fail to cure a knocking front end on these cars in my workshop. Experience, a stock of parts and intuition is often all that's needed. And i agree a stock of parts can be a big advantage. These cars can have quiet front ends ...

Do it all from the side..

You know the turbo ratios are different??

I'd put my money on top mounts or ball joints. To check the top mounts, jack up with wheel still bolted on. Leave a 4 or 5 inch gap between wheel and ground. Lift bonnet. Remove top mount rubber cover. Stick a big bar under wheel whilst having one finger on strut top nut in the middle of the top mou...

Waer in the lower balljoints can be difficult to diagnose. There is a massive vertical preload on the bottom arm which forces the two halves of the ball joint together. No good just sticking a bar under the wheel and lifting. I use a 4ft bar between the chassis and bottom arm levering downwards, wit...

Sounds a fair price to me. Make sure you get Redline gear oil, not some old sh*t*.

I'd forget coilovers for road use. Either find a set of rebuildable struts and buy Koni inserts, or buy a set of Bilstein struts. Koni or Eibach springs are both good quality and will give you firm but not uncomfortable ride, with a drop of about 30mm. Koni do a kit of four inserts and springs for a...

Easy way is with some sort of clutch aligning tool. . Once it's centrered, turn the splines so you have one on each side vertical, and then slip it in..

No problems doing it that way to date...

OK, so i fitted the kit as standard. Dumped the sidelight bulbs in the main beam units since i couldn't see any good reason for keeping them Then got to thinking..... Since the column switch/wiring etc was originally geared for H4 bulbs, still only get either dipped beams or main beams, never all at...

Balljoint eh? how much do these cost to replace, my cars displaying very similar, if not the same symptoms and is going into toyota on saturday, would be an ideal time to sort it out About £20 each to buy here: http://www.twosrus.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=159 And 30mins fitting. Come up an...

Synchro rings work by slowing down (or SYNCHRONISING) the speed of the gears to allow a crunch free meshing of the teeth.

Correct, reverse gears do not have a synchro ring, so try and engage to quick and they crunch.

No need to change anything apart from the belt unless it needs to be changed.

Tensioner and idlers should be checked for signs of wear and only replaced if necessary.

MrT for about a fiver each... Or breakers yards.

There is a guy on eBay selling Toyota nuts, but i believe they are the wrong length for stock 15" MR2 alloys.