www.imoc.co.uk

Not unusual on old shock. Time to replace (as a rear pair).

v1xz wrote:Picture?

Huh?

Torero wrote:Mint condition, straight as a joke on kids hour with end clip for bonnet present.

Torero wrote:If a pic is needed then I'll post one but I'm sure we all know what it looks like.

Nearly everyone...

TotalControl wrote:I'm guessing opposite side to gearbox link is easier to fix/replace?

Mzkes no difference.

IMR2T wrote:Fair enough, was sure I've read posts saying the ECU will run rich on lower octane fuels to safe guard the engine.

Gd to clear that up.

It can pull ignition timing using the knock sensor but that is bad practice.

IMR2T wrote:Another question I had was, if the Rev1 ECU struggles with lower octane fuel than 99 am I always best using Tesco Momemtum as it'll run richer with 95-98?

All MR2 Turbos should be run with any of the high octane fuels.

Fuel mixture will not be altered or affected in any way by fuel octane rating.

Price reduced.

£90.00 delivered.

Danbob wrote:OK Cheers,

So we're definitely 100% sure then, RH is inlet, LH is Exhaust?

Correct. Easy way to remember - rubber will melt at high temp, so less rubber on exhaust side.

mr2magic wrote:Lolz not quick enough

I always thought the ones with more rubber on top were intake...

Post corrected. That'll teach me to be on phone same time as posting on IMOC!

TotalControl wrote:Thank you for that. Will ABS have an issue in locating the right product also?

Absolutely!

Where is the d/s broken?

RH - inlet
LH - exhaust

Ah, ok. I've not changed any settings since I bought the car. You think I should turn it down till I get it set up by someone I know? IMHO, i wouldn't worry about it. As long as you're aware of the risks of running an engine/drivetrain at more than 50% of it's original maximum boost, go out and enj...

V8Killer wrote:Its a "proper" WRC block made by TTE themselves, used for about 200 miles on a actual WRC rally. Differences are massive compared to a road going ST205 one.

So, to save confusion, it's a TTE block.

RedMR² wrote:Spal fan, shroud and plate to force air through IC. Sorted. gtschris sells the lot iirc. Stock IC fan is garb.

Split the live supply to reverse lights.

Connect the live wire to existing fog light to the no-longer-powered reverse light.

Job done.

Is there a picture of steps regarding blocking TVIS? Not that I think I nd it at my bhp? Not that i know of. Remove inlet manifold, remove TVIS plae. Remove spindles and plates. Weld up spindle holes. Block up vac hose to TVIS. Refit. Ok big chap, sounds like an afternoons work :thumleft: But no ad...

Gullzter wrote:Fantastic, i have a spare WRC engine sitting in the unit

WRC long block assembly is no different from non-WRC ST205 3S-GTE..

IMR2T wrote:Is there a picture of steps regarding blocking TVIS? Not that I think I nd it at my bhp?

Not that i know of. Remove inlet manifold, remove TVIS plae. Remove spindles and plates. Weld up spindle holes. Block up vac hose to TVIS. Refit.

Guys my boost controller allows me to hit 1.1/1.2bar on the low setting. Is this ok on a Rev1? Ive no way of knowing if clutch or Pistons have been upgraded by the last owner. Fuel maps stop at about 16psi so you're at the limit if ecu capabilities. TVIS needs gutting/blocking off at 300/320bhp or ...

Make sure the old metal base has been removed.

Select a socket the same size as the metal flsnge, and tap it in.

OK, pull starter relay out of relay socket. Measure voltage at pins in socket with relation to chassis earth: Ignition off - pin 1 (red) and pin 3 (white/black) Ignition on (engine should not turn over) - pin 1 (red) and pin 3 (white/black) At ignition off - Pin 1 (red) is 0v, pin 3 (B&W) 0V At...