www.imoc.co.uk

Yep, if you check the tyre specs they are rated down to -10c.

Over 5 years and plenty of different rubber, they were the only tyre which allowed the car to be mobile in the snow

I wouldnt put them on something thats used everyday though, the roadnoise on some surfaces is pretty bad and I wouldnt fancy em in very wet conditions. Say whaaaat? I ran them year round, wet dry hot freezing. In moderate rain I could launch the car on low boost (10psi) and have the rear wheels mai...

Gazza_DJ wrote:Ahhh, OK. I would like to try something like the AD08 on my car, but I do too many miles a year really - around 20k. I'll be sticking to regular road tyres I think!

Try em once, you'll be hooked

AD08r might be as well a good choice even they are more like a street tyre, thanks. I found very little difference in outright grip comparing A048R medium compound to AD08. The AD08 was simply much better in cold and wet weather. Is this on a road car? Roughly how many miles do you get out of a set...

GreddyMR2 wrote:

AD08r might be as well a good choice even they are more like a street tyre, thanks.

I found very little difference in outright grip comparing A048R medium compound to AD08. The AD08 was simply much better in cold and wet weather.

kev8611 wrote: Hopefully the chargecooler fixes it as im putting it down to inlet temps and timing being pulled

What do the logs say? You have a datalogit, so hook up FC edit and collect a log

If you can't afford decent semi slicks in 16 why go bigger? Decent tyres are expensive.....

http://ears.co.uk/tyres/yokohama-ad08-t ... 43106.html

You gotta pay to play

Yeah I know about the turbo, just wondering which model you bought, a/r etc ?

Ta

Very much enjoying the low bling factor. What kind of coating is that on the turbo and manifold?

Which of the EFR range did you go for?

Seriously considering getting a 7670 for my FD. Almost no loss of low down torque compared to the twins and more power everywhere

Boost was never 'limited' in first and second gear. Total myth. Not true for a Rev 3, the ECU has different boost curves for 1st, 2nd and 3rd+ gears. I know this from reverse engineering the ECU software. Indeed, and the not enough load thing is bunk, I could hit 18psi in 1st gear no problem. It's ...

And disabling TVSV prevents limiting of the boost if the ECU thinks the engine bay is too hot, something easily achievable on the stock IC on a vaguely warm day.

Refinement? Nah, more like moron mitigation technology on a car where traction control was an option. Might have also had something to do with knobbling the car a bit so it wasn't as fast as a Supra out of the blocks.

Just unplug the unit. I did that before plumbing in my Blitz boost controller.

ashley wrote:

GeorgeL wrote:Great Post

equally good follow up

I may be wrong, perhaps I don't understand turbo compressor maps as well as I thought

The problem in determining a safe boost level comes because you are not running the stock turbo. The stock turbo will flow x lb/min of air at 1.2bar A gt3076r will flow higher than x lb/min of air at 1.2bar. More air, more fuel, bigger bang in the cylinder. You're in uncharted waters really, even at...

I thought the minimum boost pressure was controlled by the wastegate actuator spring? It's not possible on a stock turbo to run less than 6 or 7psi if everything's working properly. +1 min you can run is 7psi or 0.5bar sure you can feather around 0-0.2bar or whatever, but foot down, hi-ish rpm you ...

And you have a very good intercooler or big charge cooler I hope Did you just answer my question with a question? Looks like he made a statement to me. The lack of a question mark is what tells me that :thumleft: He's right though. Some perspective. 1. The stock intercooler is crap. Running stock b...

em1_matt wrote:Haha I did a track day not long ago, it was sooo cold and frosty it took and age to get warmth in them haha. R1R's gave a much faster response.

Yeah I bet the R1R warmed quicker, 120 vs 180 treadwear rating