www.imoc.co.uk

1. Nice n Smooth (D)
2. Speedmaster (D)
3. Baum (D)
4. DB1 - (UK) ? zinc or ss?
5. Moo (UK)
6. Tóronn (D)
7. Ed (NL)
8.
...

zinc plated:
1. Baum (D)
2. DB1 (UK) ?
3.
4.

This might help as well:

CV joint reassembly (6 balls from hell)

I like everything about that kit apart from the rear. It's too box like. Now if you can take everything from that kit and mate it to the TRD rear end then it would look awesome.

I'm in the same position, however if they didn't come as a kit with the turbo I think you are going to have to make them up yourself.

You might try giving Tim at xxxx a call and see if he would be prepared to make some up.

Ed

Add me to the list although it does depend on the final price. If it's under or around the £200 mark I'm definately in.

1. Gtech
2. irish_dan
3. KrisB
4. Grajey
5. Ed

I use dust on mine. Works wonders.

Hi

Have you got any of these remaining? If so can you put me down for a set of whatever you have left.

Ed

Twosrus

Well known US site affiliated with the MR2OC.com

I have currently got ATS cam Pulleys but have a set of CAT Cam Pulleys to go on. As these can be easily adjusted on the Dyno using their locking pin system. http://www.catcams.co.uk/pulleys.asp They are a bit more expensive than the others but should make Swinging the CAMS on the Dyno a lot easier/...

See this is what worries me. Which makes of cam gears are more likely to have the bolts back out or come loose. This is what worries me about the designs that only have 3 bolts.

Fidanza and I think the ATS ones both have 5 bolts. Not sure what other makes use 5 bolts.

I've got piper 264's on a flowed head waiting to be put onto a spare block once I've built it.

Just trying to decide which cam gears are best. Only problem with HKS I don't like other than the price is that they only have 3 bolts holding the wheel.

I am looking for a set of cam gears, question is which are best.

Choices I can think of are:

AEM
Fidanza
HKS
ATS

Any others I haven't thought of?

Another thing is that there are only 2 sizes of radiator for the MR2. THe 672mm and the 572mm model. Just measure the core between the end tanks as shown in his advert. One more thing is that although this radiator is a perfect fit the only thing it doesn't come with is the bleed tap to connect the ...

Hi. Try this chap Radiator Experts Forget about buying it from ebay. I rang him on the number in the ebay advert because I needed the 672mm model. It cost me £112 including the postage to Holland. Fit was perfect and well packaged and extremely quick delivery. I had it within 2 days of ordering. HTH...

Nope. Some MR2's have a clutch switch that will not let you start the engine unless the clutch is fully depressed.

Have you just bought the car or is this a problem that has just suddenly appeared?

Problem was trapped air which seems strange because I spent 2.5 hours bleeding the system and was sure it was all out.

Re-bled it again yesterday afternoon and all working fine. Took it for a blast and the temp gauge sits at half way again and doesn't move.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Hope so. I was just worried by the amount of it. Probably around 1 - 1.5 glass fulls in 35 minutes

Looks like I have sorted the overheating on the car and left it running for 25 minutes and the temp gauge didn't move off the halfway mark. However whilst make a final check for any leaks I saw a lot of water dripping from level with the back of the front passenger side wheel. At first I thought the...

I bled it with the heater in the hot position. I think I'll have another go just to be sure.

I've just changed the radiator and bled the system. I spent the best part of 2.5 hours bleeding it to make sure that there was no air in the system. I changed the thermostat at the same time for a genuine Toyota item. Now here's the problem the car seemed to warm up ok when I took it for a drive. Th...