www.imoc.co.uk

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121617362859

This is the stuff I used

Top tip..... Make sure you can undo the fill plug before removing the drain plug

I'm with you on this one If you know the water pump and pulleys are only say 20-30 k miles old and they feel smooth but with a little resistance when spun then they should be good til next belt change. The only caveat being check the front and rear of each pulley as even supposedly quality pulleys c...

I see any idea where I can get some new bushings/parts to solve the problem ? I'm going to change my gearbox oil to Castrol syntrans aswell , I heard about brass bushings but was told these arht the best to use is that right ? Just a little confused at the moment on what I need to buy I think the f...

the gear lever has 2 cables attached at the bottom to connect it to the gearbox. These cables have rubber bushes at either end that have a brass bush inside. These bushes can go ovoid and cause an imprecise movement. Additionally at the gearbox end they are open to the elements and moisture and grim...

Glad to see you think you have got to the bottom of this. The engine and gearbox earths are essential to be in good shape. Especially for starting as the starter motor can draw some ampage especially if it is old and worn. Further to this there is an essential earth under the inlet manifold that nee...

Again check the outputs on the ignition switch with a meter. If that checks out then move on to the immobiliser.

Trace all the immobiliser wires and label where they join the loom and remove and reconnect the original wires.

Could be a failing immobilizer!
Also could be starter relay or wiring to it in boot.

I would first check ignition switch and wiring to it tho

wilkie senior wrote:Above the rim

Thanks its little gems of info like this that are really help to people

now you see if this had been on faceache, it would have been bro, no its not, awesome, you "no nuthink" etc ha ha

cheers again fella

Regards Brian

Yes fam this site be safe blood

Last night I came home from work (in the dark) on my bike and as i pulled into my drive i noticed the brake lights on my 2 were on. Now I havent driven it since the Monday and again parked it in the dark so would have noticed the brake lights still on if they had have been then. So last night I grab...

Also worth wipping of the throttle body and the iac and giving them a clean. they can get gunked up.
After cleaning the iac with carb cleaner and checking the gate turns super free dry it out and spray a little WD40 at the bearings (either end of the gate as it were).

Here is something to check that won't cost you anything... Both the TPS and the MAP sensor (thingy near the diag box on the firewall with a vac hose running to the underside) use E2 connection to the ECU. I believe there is a splice in the loom somehere under the inlet manifold. You could attach a s...

I am assuming the hard line to the Flexi is screwed into the restrictor with a brake line fitting. You could run just new kunifer pipe from there using the old fitting at the restrictor (or a new one if you find the size) and the new MR2 size fitting at the Flexi end. If you buy the new Flexi lines ...

When polybushing order the type you want. I believe 3 different hardnesses are available from various manufacturers.

Can't help with the sizes but i replaced my brake hoses with a set from Hel. On the rears they had a plastic piece that fitted through the bracket on the shock held by the oem U clip. The OEM hoses were bolted to the wheel arch at the hard line to hose union with 2 bolts but the Hel lines had no fac...

The caster will move some when making other adjustments.
Also some front topmounts have eccentric placed hole. Not sure which rev but they could have been fitted oriented wrong.

EDIT
just re read the first post and saw followers so scratch the topmount suggestion

The caster on the front is off the scale!

Look on alignmycar for a hunters alignment place near you.

I had a king lead making poor connection as the elbow end fitting was snapped inside the rubber end. Worth a look

Oh and please don't use copper grease on anything other than the back of the pads.
Use ceratec or red grease.

Oh you may want to look at the condition of the slider bolts and the fixing bolts also.

The kits from them are good but I don't like the small hex on the bleed nipples.

The front are different for rev1 so if you're is rev2+ then you should be good. I ordered a lot from them years ago and the print for the piston was just too big as I have a rev 1.