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PW@Woodsport wrote:

Answers on a postcard, because at this moment i have no clue

Business is business.

£16k is a big lump of cash

Just put a T piece on the block where the stock pressure switch goes and add a Mk2 pressure switch, this will act as an "idiot light" for the dashboard and will provide earth when low/no pressure. Very simple wiring.... sender/wire to dash bulb as a ground, provide bulb with 12v ignition,...

There is one isn't there?

It would also be very easy to wire an aftermarket light to the existing sensor which screws into the engine block near to the oil filter housing.

I hope this helps.

Finish it then drive it. You may change your mind!

If you want a good reliable power gain then I'd recommend saving up and doing a proper head build to suit your desired cam. These engines already have the ability to rev, the head is where the power is at. Spending the money on a decent head build will really pay dividends. Bike carbs and a distribu...

The standard ecu will run carbs, it may only give static timing though. With everything else removed I suspect bridging the diagnostic ports t1 and e1???? Would get a car with running at least.

Not ideal.

It can be done, not sure it works without mods though.

Our rally car was using the original mk1a ECU when on twin 45 webers. I've not got a clue how to do it. Personally I'd go for a megajolt or similar for fully programmable ignition control.

I had an intake pipe split between the AFM and the turbo. This let extra, unmetered air into the engine. The check engine light would come on as soon as the engine came on boost. It also tripped the code 52 due to excessive knock (running too lean). I fixed the pipe and reset the ECU but still had a...

Yes, if I understand correctly, too big a footprint means you won't get enough heat into the tyres The less horses you have the less heat you'll generate It's more that you end up with too much grip. The AW11 has a beautifully balanced and chuckable chassis. With more grip you lose feel and adjusta...

Another vote for 195s. 205 really is a bit much for the mk1. I use 195s on my 250ish bhp mk1.5 and it handles beautifully. I always thought toyo were ok, mainly because they were soft and cheap. But now they arn't very cheap and there are grippier alternatives that will last longer. If I were you I'...

Thanks guys.

I'll get the engine out then.

So the turbo should be ok? Is it the crank case pressure forcing oil past the turbo seals?

Thanks Again.

Try a different coil. I'm sure many will disagree due to resistance and dwell etc etc but any old coil should do. My Range Rover Classic ran much better with an AW11 coil than with the crusty old lucas one is came with. Just worth a try before you spend any money or time on it. If you've got any coi...

I'm sure all this has been covered before but here goes anyway. About 2 years ago I ran my mr2 at Santa Pod, half way down the strip boost halved and I subjected everyone watching to a lovely cloud of oily smoke. On returning to the paddock we found that the charge cooler had lots of oil in it and t...

It's also got a big ol leaf spring poking out from behind the rear wheel (I think).

Suzuki SJ chassis?

Busy busy I see! I'm working on a housing for above the central panel... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zvwxiBScyyE/Uc35FE9BLyI/AAAAAAAAAV0/i6CI14GuLY0/s800/sc_reb_17.jpg There may be a slight viewing problem with this design Coanda, i mocked up my triple pod today in the same place, and the wi...

To be fair you are ragging the hooters off yours though :D I'll take that as a compliment :thumleft: Mechanical sympathy is not something I am renowned for. But if I can break something in a few months then for someone looking for bulletproof reliability (arn't we all) my R&D is very useful. Ev...

I don't think the 4a-ge has enough power to trouble the torque mount areas, on 3s-gte and V6 builds i reinforce the chassis areas where they bolt on, use the best quality bushes i can find (PU on the stock mounts is a bodge in my opinion) and i then fit a small shock absorber. I've had problems wit...

If the rears have been sticking it will need new pads. Not a big job at all. Unsticking them will be the challenge.

If you're skilled enough to change pads you should easily be able to fix this.

Also check the hand brake cables, they can also cause issues.

I once had a set of BF Goodrich Profiler-G. From what I can remember they were very good, they had a thick and rigid tyre wall like a Motorsport tyre. I was very impressed. Not seen or used them since. BFGs tend to be expensive these days. Good luck with your choice. Hopefully with the geometry sort...

Mk1 rears (and most rear calipers with a hand break mech, even on much younger cars) have a habit of seazing solid.

Strip down the calipers and give them a good clean and bashing around. Some kind of high temperature grease on moving parts may also help.