www.imoc.co.uk

The exhaust manifolds are identical apart from the lambda sensor flange on the S/C version (and maybe some late N/A's??).

Exhaust systems are interchangable between S/C and N/A models.

I've just bought: main shells big end shells head gasket oil seal gaskets and assorted gaskets piston rings head bolts We didn't buy crank thrust bearings as they don't generally wear and are about £30 to change them. Think that lot was about £450 from Toyota if that's any help. I paid £140 to have...

Personally I go for the cheapest 20W50 semi I can find on high mileage engines of unknown history. I only use expensive stuff (Millers or Valvoline fully synthetic) on fresh or rebuilt engines. On the advice of our engine builder we have been running Millers CFS 10W60 fully synthetic racing oil in t...

The drive shaft held up to 60 miles of abuse at Anglesey over the weekend. 8 stages saturday evening and 8 stages sunday morning. It was all going swimmingly until stage 15 when we lost syncro on 2nd which made things a bit chellenging. The this annoyance caused us to overshot a square right off one...

Driveshaft fixed.....almost. The fix suggested by Mr Woods was spot on, the Mk2 N/A shaft slotted into the C64 diff and mk1 hub perfectly. Unfortunately I didn't realise that the mk2 hub nuts are much bigger than their mk1 little brothers. Its all together, just awaiting the washer, nut, lock washer...

The Davies Craig electric water pump is still in its box. We solved our temperature problems by completely rebuilding the cooling system. It now has a pressurised header tank in the boot which is self bleeding. We havn't had a problem since. We are currently running without a thermostat so the engin...

Visit www.warringtondmc.org to view our new in car footage.

http://www.warringtondmc.org/90280/info.php?p=14

It is the top video and its an unpleasent ending.

Beautiful car. Very well done.

I agree.

If you havn't got any mk1 front mounts its not too challenging to knock some up yourself, I used 2mm stainless plate.

A very cheap and effective upgrade, cost me £0 in total.

Would make an awesome looking track / rally car.

Nice car.

dont use dot 5.1, performance fluid is mostly dot 4 and is usually way past the specification of dot 5.1. 5.1 AFAIK is for road cars that has a long life between changes. If you track a car at least replace fluid every yea... Slightly irrelevant but we use 'AP RACING' DOT 5.1 fluid in the rally car...

I fitted HKS 264s to my otherwise standard (but very low mileage) mk1. With standard ignition and cam timing it ran (and still runs, although not mine) well, I'd guess there is no significant power increase but what I loved was the power delivery. Unlike standard mk1s with the HKS cams it really doe...

I always used NGK coppers BCPR6EY-11 if I recall correctly, may be 5EY-11 for stock replacement but I always used 6s. They will be pre gapped too. A couple of other things to check are the vacuum lines for leakage and the cold start injector (may be stuck open). Could be something to do with cold s...

Another vote for DS2500s. Don't go anywhere near EBC, they just are not reliable. Another option is Carbotech if they do something off the shelf for the aw11 (front AND rear). Definitely worth re-checking the rear sliders and pistons, I've only ever had braking issues with a mk1 when the rears are s...

A bit of paint won't make it any harder to get the nut off, they can be extremely difficult with 'just' 20 odd years of salty road juice. My vote is for a quick wire brush, slap on some red oxide and a quick sprinkle of satin black. It won't last forever but it will tidy it up a little. Alternativel...

I'm guessing it's no one on here but I spotted a very nice mk1 on the St Gatthard pass on my way from Switzerland to Italy a few days ago. I'd spent the few days before drooling over german retro exotica in Baden-Baden so it was a nice change to see something jap. I'd say it was more OEM+ than euro ...

I think YES, but maybe not with black centers.

Much nicer looking than those other wheels you had.

This idea has also crossed my mind as for some reason 4a-ge N/A tuning bits seem disproportionately expensive. I suspect this is due to it's age and subsiquent low volume demand/requirement for parts. If I were to go down the route of using a different engined pistons I'd start by measuring the impo...

I recommend a bigger hammer and probably a bit more swearing.