www.imoc.co.uk

Toyota part no. 42210-14010 apparently.

Pretty sure Toyota don't sell them separately. They will try sell you a complete hub. Yep, Toyota do not sell these separately. I have seen on some MR2 site where they were replaced using after market one. Just cant remember where i've seen it. http://twosrus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_3...

A RacerX Fabrication Air Intake Box is $335 in the USA. It is made in the USA, so not some cheap crap imported from China.

I would have though something similar made the in the UK should be roughly the same price?

M10x1.25 (fine pitch) are the bolts I used to fit a struct brace at the front.
Can't remember the length though.

I thought the minimum boost pressure was controlled by the wastegate actuator spring? It's not possible on a stock turbo to run less than 6 or 7psi if everything's working properly.

It's an earlier version of the Blitz Access, compare with http://www.ebay.ie/itm/BLITZ-Access-Ecu ... 0847755626

Probably a small hole in the BOV diaphragm.

I replaced the circuit board that drives the stock boost gauge with my own board with an AVR. The boost gauge is much more responsive now and it's now calibrated exactly how I want it to be. It's driven from the same MAP sensor signal the ECU uses for fuelling so it's give a good indication of what ...

Rev 3 ECU fuel and ignition maps only go up to 0.95 bar. Above that the ECU extrapolates to give the required fuel.

I've just swapped my nap Speedo cluster for a UK one and did the above to the letter. I've yet to refift them to the car so will update with how accurate it was. Honestly, I'd expect you to be out by 5-10mph I'll be impressed if it actually results in an accurate speedo :thumleft: It should be very...

I found the easiest way to remove and refit the speedo needle was to: 1. Gently lift the end of the needle over the 'stop' pin. 2. Rest the gauge cluster somewhere level so that gravity was not effecting the needle position. 3. Leave the needle to settle to it's true zero position. 4. Take a photo a...

If the voltage from the MAP sensor doesn't go outside the expected range the ECU won't throw an error code. It's not clever enough to throw an error code if the MAP sensor reading is within range but doesn't tie up with other inputs like TPS and RPM.

Lift up the rubber cover and unscrew with long nose pliers. 2 minute job.

Check the ignition timing is spot on, if it's retarded the exhaust gases will be hotter at the turbo, making more boost. A Rev 3 turbo with downpipe, free flowing exhaust and SMIC or chargecooler is right on the limit of what the CT20b wastegate can handle. My MR2 with a chargecooler, downpipe and e...

Lefty1991 wrote:It didn't distort or crack with heating it up then?

No, I just applied heat slowly and only applied a small amount of pressure with a socket set extension bar inserted into the pipe.

A 5v pulse about 2ms long immediately after the ignitor has fired.

I heated it up with a Propane Torch and twisted it around another 20 degrees or so.

The speed limiter is implemented inside the ECU, so the easiest way to 'disable' it is to change the speed signal that the ECU sees. The speed signal from the gearbox goes to the speedometer first, where the signal is cleaned up before going to both the ECU and the PAS. The usual solution is to fit ...

On a wideband sensor there's a calibration resistor in the connector. If you've rewired the connector you may have lost the calibration which is why you're not seeing ~14.7:1 at idle.