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Spoilerless looks good as its coming towards you, still looks good as you approach the 3/4 angle, but as soon as you start to se the side on profile it all goes wrong IMO! IMO it needs something to detract from the sloping boot lid. I do quite like the MadPSI boot lid - Image Replaced With URL For ...

So you don't want to use the rear view mirror any more? Bold move! I'm with you on the spoilerless looks but the F40 lid….? Nah. Don't get me wrong I love your work and admire the skills and professionalism on display but I think you're trying to gild the lilly so to speak, I'm still playing around...

I've had to take a break from it for a while because my customer workload is just too high right now, there literally aren't enough hours in the day. In the meantime I've been parts collecting and preparing to get stuck in again when work eases off a bit. After all of my hard work on the customized ...

You're welcome, just get a new bleed complete with O rings from Toyota, part number 90910-09093

Sorry I haven't got one in stock, but this is it and cheaper...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timing-Belt-I ... Swol5YyDR4

I agree, two caps both allowing coolant past would be very unlucky, so if it is bypassing the cap it is doing so at more than 1.5bar pressure. Air in the system causes steam, which raises the pressure beyond the cap rating. If there was that much air I would also expect you to have a bouncing idle a...

It could just be bypassing a worn out pressure cap, no coolant should be getting past the pressure cap (not to be confused with the expansion bottle cap) when the engine is running, that is either a symptom of 0.9bar exceeded in the cooling system or a faulty cap. Replace the pressure cap first, if ...

It's one of my mods, you should have just asked and I would have given it to you.

The fuel injectors are after the tvis rail so additives won't work, just clean it up in some wd40 or diesel.

Resistor pack (if equipped) is beside the coil.

No the whole engine/box/loom drops out without removing anything from it, takes me approx 45-50mins to remove a Mk1 engine, I don't even need to remove the wheels. Green injectors you say... they aren't Mk1 then I don't think. Mk1a - grey injectors/ square plug- no resistor pack Late Mk1a substitute...

I'd rather not have to change the loom, but don't mind swapping over the injection systems? Surely your new engine has the loom already on it though? It would be a simple case of passing the loom through the boot wall and plugging it straight into the ECU/COR/N1 connector.... in the engine bay it j...

Yeah we have seen people cross fitting early and late ECUs and running into problems, to be fair some of them had decided not to run the resistor pack, so to avoid any confusion now I advise keeping the whole lot matched, ie. if you have a Mk1a loom/injectors/ECU then use all of that, if you have a ...

but might as well leave the earlier ecu in the car as it's already sat there Do not do that, bad things will happen, early cars run without an injector resistor pack, later ones have the resistor pack, you have to run the correct ECU with the loom/injectors/resistor pack. As advised swap everything...

There is nothing to say really, it's all just a straight fit.

Hi Adam I sent you a PM, could you give me a ring please thanks.

No it's not Tvis related at all, you can rule that out.

This type of problem is extremely hard to fix via the internet, I would need to spend time on it in person I think.

Hi Adam, I will take this, PM me sir if you like.

Yes that pressure is correct, trying a FPR is probably a good idea, but you will need to remove the old regulator from the rail too.

Ohh... a 255, that's massive overkill, your stock Mk1 pump delivers around 80lph, so the walbro is delivering over 3 times the fuel you need! Now in theory the regulator should be keeping the pressure constant, but you are moving so much fuel to the rail it could be overcoming the regulator..... ie ...