[Mk2] [Turbo] WIP HEADGASKET change! **FINISHED** **AWSOME BAY SHOTS**

[jimGTS]

ok, thought id post a thread of my journey ahead and during my headgasket change.
(this is in no means gospel, just the way im doing it)

today, had a couple of hours free and made a start as the car will be off the road.
i may have questions along the way to.

my present plans are...cometic 1mm MLS headgasket, ARP head studs, head overhauled by nathan at century motorsport including, reshimming, relapping, skimming, cleaning the head. new valve stems seals, new cam seals, and chucking in my new rev3 inlet cam along the way. (unfortunatly i wont be able to document the head overhaul as itll be with nathan).
plan to get the inlet manifold out, so theyll be how to on this as well to show how to remove the TVIS butterflies.
im going to completely remove all TVIS and TVSV components (vaacum lines, actuators etc etc) as there simply not used on my setup and to save some major weight!
replace the HFH pipes, (hose from hell)
also going to change in the distributor seal (might need to ask about this, as i didnt see one), coolent change and oil change.
AND finally while all of these metal components are off im going to clean and be spraying them a combination of red, black and hammered silver.

here we go, let the games begin!

ic to throttle body pipe off, and throttle/manifold body stay and throttle body ic join pipe off (name escapes me)





throttle body off (disconnect tps and idle control valve connectors (i think thats what they are?) and disconnected the 2 coolent and one vaacum line to it




disconenct injector connectors and remove some of the vaacum hosing to MAP sensor and fuel rail, move TB (throttle body) lines out the way as theyll no dout still have coolent still in there



turbo headshield removed
turbo the intercooler hardpipe removed



remove engine stay, remove distributor cap and igntion leads, and the throttle body pipes



remove distributor itself and where is all this crap coming from????
removed bov to manifold vaacum line stay






coolent matrix hoses/lines and connenctors starting to be removed, coolent matrix fuel line stay removed
removed bov to manifold vaacum line stay



majority of the things removed minus all the vac lines and bolts so far.



more to come.......

[jimGTS]

anyone ideas about the mess near the dizzy......?

and what is the dizzy seal and where is it??

[3sgte]

there is an oring which you can see. and there is a seal which stops the oil getting into the inside of the dizzy ,although if that was gone the inside of your cap would be oily




EDIT just checked EPC and there is no individual seal listed for inside dizzy

then remebered that there was a dizzy seal repair kit on usa site
click on the picture and the orange bit is a sealed bearing which is located inside the dizzy

http://www.twosrus.com/catalog/product_ ... ucts_id=67

[tonigmr2]

I don't see why not (spraying fuel rail), just make sure you keep the business bit clean.

The rest - sure it's not just the result of wobbly hand filling/spilling?
Had you noticed it using oil?
T

[jimGTS]

right, are arp head bolts a must, or will stock new studs be ok??

[gavaroo]

What are you guys looking at for parts? This is what I am planning to get at the moment.

Cometic HG from gtschris at £80
Head gasket set from ebay at £45 posted (think I need this as getting valves de-coked etc)
Timing belt from Flashmetal at £40
Head studs about £15 (not sure where to get them from yet)
Oil and filter (about £20)
Cam belt tensioner and idler pulleys from camskill at £50
Anti-freeze (about £20)

What do you reckon, will I need anything else or are there any better/cheaper places to source these parts?

[jimGTS]

had a few hours on the weekend to carry on where i left off.....

more progress pics.....
LOTs and lots of trying and testing various tools to get those inlet manifold bolts off, busted a 12mm bit, so have to order another to get off the last bolt at the top...so im lucky i didnt run into any problems here as theres so little room to get good leverage on all those bolts and the stays/supports.

tvis and tvsv all came off ok, soon as i get the manifold off ill be detaching the butterflies...
also might get a better idea where all the oil is p*ssing from....

also thinking of using that red hose coming off the manifold (that attached to the tvsv) as my new boost line?? good idea???
tvsv pipe to actuator is completely illiminated now...and ive no need for the tvis components as well so ditching everything.
took a few pics to show peeps how its all connected to the system also and you can see how i orginally disabled the tvsv, just cut and blocked the hose leading to the tvsv connecter.

fuel rail out also and finished taking out the coolent matrix.
exhaust manifold bolts all loosened, and started to undo the oil and water pipes to the turbo....


coolent matrix out




2 main bolts holding matrix to head off, various coolent lines going everywhere taken off and the fuel line stays



induction/air filter pipe off
oil catch can doing its clean, turbo seems clean, slight film of oil, but to be expected i would asume....



engine hook being unbolted, also intercooler pipe off to get more room. o2 sensor unbolted, oil filter off.



fuel rail out...
4 10mm injector stay bolts off and 3 12mm fuel rail to head, bolts off
and the 2 inlet manifold supports off




close up of crap and tvsv/tvis componets from above



tvsv and tvis components, canister and actuators and all connectors and vaacum lines




tvsv connector pulled out, and for you to see hows its connected to the actuator and how i disabled it




tvsv canister



all componets now removed

[jimGTS]

had an hour or so free to finally get the inlet manifold out, bit of a pain trying to get it past the wiring hardness, and i found it much easier to actually pull out the TVIS and the gaskets inbetween that connect to the head before pulling the main unit out, this gave me more room!!

i also found all my inlet gasket caked in oil, my maifold is nearly flooding with oil, the tvis butterflies were baked in oil......

hopefully all of this can be cleaned out, but you can see it got pretty messy, and im still unsure where all this oil is coming from....

disconnncted, knock sensor clip, starter motor clip and unbolted the manifold ground wire....
manifold pulled out....





gaskets





tvis unit with actuator



manfiold mess....any ideas about all this oil built up??







tvis butterflies easily removed



where theres alot of oil, any ideas???



got a feeling this pipe could be peeing out the oil in this area, time for a clean and proper clip i recon....



head valves....




got luke aka skywalker at pacific works popping round tomar to give me a hand with the turbo and timing belt side of things! then it should be out!

[jimGTS]

had luke from pacific works show up today to give me a hand with the turbo, timing belt and wipping the head off today...

everything went well, only took a few hours due to the massive time saved by getting off all the bits i did ..
dam shame about the turbo, i recon i could have done that myself, i had done most of it already, lol...
but defo woulda needed help with the timing and head side of things!
enjoy, engines in half! gulp!!!

all done with the engine in the car.


huge 27mm oil to turbo feed bolt wipped off, along with the lower oil pipe to sump hose removed, coolent feedpipes to the turbo, 9 manifold bolts, downpipe unbolted from the exhaust, and taken out....
can also see the hose from hell now.




belt cover removed with a few 10mm bolts, timing belt removed enough with the engine mount stay removed, crank put to 0btdc and cam cover off (hex bolts)





and one for luke who loved all my PANTS and KNICKERS used to block holes!



turbo, manifold and downpipe, and oil lines removed in one go!



luke finishing up removing the last head bolt!



head off!!!








changing the thermostat while its easy to get to with stock toyota item



also made a start with removing the hoses from hell, but parts not showed up yet so will do that when i get them and luke pops round again



luke was impressed by the bores, they were mint, but alot of deposits, aka from my inlet manifold, you can see the 2 dirt marks on each piston left by the manifold, this will all have to be cleaned up!




big thanks to luke popping round!

ANY ADVICE ON NEXT STEPS????

[jimGTS]

right, made a start cleaning the block, a stanley blade came in very useful......
the surface is smooth to the touch, i cant feel any bits poking out, altho the block doesnt look clean in the sense that you can still see the outline of the out gasket on it, is this a problem even tho it feels all gone???

reallt struggling with the dipostis left on the pistons


i asume im ok to turn the crank 180degrees to get to the tops on the other 2 psitons? the timing belt is still half on, this a problem?

cheers

[cantfindausername]

You'll have to reset the timing when putting it back together anyway, so I'd go for it.

[jimGTS]

another update.....


well i thankfully found an excellent product to start removing the old headgasket crap that was on the block, unfortunatly for me i found it to late, lol, so wasted a bit of time on the block. but came in very useful for the tvis plate and manifold!!
anyway, the stanley blade came in very useful on the block, and the acid type paint/gasket removal spray is doing wonders on the extremely solid and dense carbon/oil build up on the pistons...., no pics of where im at regarding this, cause they are a pain...(but pics of the block side of things).
Today i gave a good amount of time to the respraying of LOADS of engine parts, for the past few weeks when ive had the old bit of time ive been cleaning/degreasing every bit ive taken off!!

heres the results, im really pleased with the finish! (sod getting them polished!)

cleaned up coolent hardpipes


block face


one of the cooletn HFH, now with jubilee clips


oil cooler top and the hose from hell (HFH) pipe, all cleaned up!


HFH installed


turbo/manifold heatshiled prepped and painted matt black!


great job on the inlet manifold!! compare to my old pics!! must of spent hours cleaning this up!


cleaned inners!


coolent and vaacum hardpipes all sprayed


throttle body sprayed! tricky bu88er to mask up to say the least!


coolent matrix!



TB/cam cover support bracket


custom greddy type S welded turbo/ic hardpipe! (thanks to steve aka spaceman for this)


engine support and turbo hardpipe support sprayed!


engine hook


components together!




much improved TVIS plate, still gota spray this.



everything cleaned up!


toyota and camskill products new to go on



i still gota spray the heatshields, and in 2 minds about doing the intercooler pipes (just polish), but well see!!!

[jimGTS]

I had the head skimmed which sorted the head face and i used wet and dry p600 grade with big flat piece of aluminium 10" x 4" ish.

I used penitrating oil with the wet & dry, also used this to get all the carbon off the piston crowns.


ARP BOLTS:-

Hand tightend the studs into block.(greased the threads)
Head on, washers on studs then lubed bottom of Nuts and torqued to 60ftlb's in specified order (see BGB)

Then in turn, loosened each nut and retorqued once again in the specified order.

Did this 5 times, and thats it.

I'll be repeating the slacken and re-torque process once more in 1000miles.

I did some reading on this and find this process to be the best.

Hope this helps

Spannerman

cool, tiny bit confused about the torquing.....

you do 1-10 to 60lb, then undo from 10-1, then retorque 1-10, undo 10-1 etc etc...
or did you do 1-10, then retorque 10 5times, go to 9, undo and retorque 5 times, to 8 etc etc...
im guessing the first one, as your not ment to undo any nut unless its in order?

only thing im worried about is the block really, it appears really very flat to the touch, just worried how much material im taking off with the wet and dry, hardly done it as need to move 1 and 4 pistons out the way.

[spannerman]

Okies, the Torque thing.


Torque bolts 1 through 10 - 60ftlb's

Then starting at number 1 bolt, slacken and then re-torque. Then move onto number 2 bolt and so forth. Once you've completed number 10, start over, repeat 5 times.

Sounds like a ball ache and it is but thats what ARP recommend so thats that.

As for the block:-

With P600 you'll be lucky if you take 0.5mm off it in half and hours rubbing.

Turn the crank so all the pistons are down a little then use wet and dry with a block accross the whole length (you may need to remove the dowels), keeping the strokes equal across. You should use WD40 or something simular with this, the main thing is it must be wet other wise your gonna get tiny filings in the bores.

It took me about 10mins to clean up the block then half hour to clean the pistons. I used a vac afterwards to make sure there were no foriegn bodies in the bores.

Hope this helps

Spannerman

[jimGTS]

thanks...
how are the dowels removed, i asume these are the 2 bits sticking up from the block diagonaly across each other.

[spannerman]

Yes they are the 2 bits in the corners of the block.

I just used a pair of vice grips and turned them whilst applying upward force. They should come out easy enough and tap back in with light blows of a hammer.

[jimGTS]

sweet!

well with any luck i should be getting the head back tomorrow!

relapped, reshimmed, new valve stem seals, new cam seals, chemical clean, head skim and my rev3 inlet cam going on!


thanks to nathan at century motorsport

aparently it was in a bit of a mess, and had a leaky valves, one quite bad, so hopefully ill see some good improvements in response!


so maybe back together next weekend or da 24/25th!

[RyanRs]

Jim, where did you get the hammerite spray paint from? did you have to use a primer with it? the finish looks soo much better than the brush on stuff

[jimGTS]

Jim, where did you get the hammerite spray paint from? did you have to use a primer with it? the finish looks soo much better than the brush on stuff

B&Q spray dude, theres not many colours to chosse from tho.

i saw nick today at toytoa, he mentioned there was somewhere local where i can get someone round to skim the block insitu??? do you know who hes on about? as he wernt sure exactly?

[jimGTS]

another quick update.....

weekend i spent cleaning up those pistons, man they were a nightmare, must have been on them a good 4-5hours total over the last couple of weeks......
some time has been spent of getting the block all nice and clean/flat for when the head goes back on.
found a nice flat tile and glued some 400 wet and dry to that, and used wd40....

also drained more coolent, anyone any tips on getting the lot out???
ive undo the engine plug, 2 bolts under the fuel tank, and the front drain plug on the rad....
i blew into the top coolent pipe in the bay to push as much coolent through out of the hfh pipe, and undone the drain plugs again, that seemed to get more out....
so anymore tips??

ive also sprayed up some more bits....
but unfortunatly not got any pics to hand! will do soon...

sprayed up the tvis plate silver obviously to match the inlet manifold....
i sprayed my ATS racing bored out rail a nice shiney black for contrast, and the fuel rail injector stay, i sprayed bright red like the hardpipe stay.

my 2 shields on the firewall are a nice black, i hada hard time figuring out what i wanted to do with these, but i decided polishing them would be do much grief, so there a nice matt/shiney black instead, less hassle.
also sprayed my timing belt cover red to break up the black on the cam cover i already have done. and also tidded up the head cam devider (the plate that sits between the head and the cams), thats a nice fresh black as well.
all the IC pipes are now all sprayed up silver as well, and i may detail the embossed greddy badge on the small pipe to red, havent decided yet.
bits to do.....
spray the distributor.......
possibly carry on with the block face,
then GET THAT BABY BACK TOGETHER!!!!

spent more cash on more tools, 1/2inch socket set 10-32mm, so thatll help with the larger nuts, breaker bar, timing light and a compression test kit! so i should be good to go once its back together!!
man this has cost a fortune! doh!