pinched of another forum penned by Mr Bingman senior
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Door cards off
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-
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step 1.
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- check where the window does not fit.
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My passenger one was to far forward
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(you can see where it is supposed to be on the rubbers
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- indentation).
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this also threw out the curve by the front meeting point of the T-Bar.
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In turn threw out the rear meeting point of the T-Bar.
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Drivers side was only slightly forward and did not leak, but had some wind noise so worth doing.
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step 2
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- undo the front and rear glass guides.
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(the front guide top is held on by an over lock
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- come to that later).
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Use the rear guide movement to line up with where you want it to be on the door jam seal.
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Lock off the rear guide.
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Step 3
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- close the door slowly
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(basically offer it up to see how the glass lines up).
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Don't slam it
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- on my 1st upper stop adjustment it was 1cm to high and would have shattered if slammed.
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step 4
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- if you have a gap at the top use the window upper stops to adjust this gap.
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( the window has an auto resistance stop mechanism that is used to stop the height.
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safety feature for hands etc).
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You may need to do this a couple of times to get it right.
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Step 4
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- front glass guide top 2 bolts are the adjustment for moving th eglass closer to the seals.
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adjust to suit and then use the overlock to lock in place.
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step 5
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- use the door trim supports to move the door trim closer to the glass
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- this helps stop them rattling when part way down etc.
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I had been studying the BGB for about a week on and off to get it in my mind how each element reacted with each other.
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Passenger side 20mins after door card off
Drivers side 15 mins with door card off.
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total time about 2 hours as I used the time to rust proof the inside of the doors, grease up the sliders as it was all exposed.
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and refit some of the studs etc that hold the rubbers to the doors.
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basically should not have to go back into the doors for a few years now.
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Once you get your head round it
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- it is quite simple.
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Hope this helps.
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