[Mk2] [Generic] Window adjustment

[Ryan S]

my windows are quite wobbly in the doors. I have a couple of small leaks as well. Anyone got any experience with adjusting them? they basically need to be tighter so they aren't wobbly and not leaking. they need adjusted inwards toward the seal by the looks of it.

[wilkie senior]

pinched of another forum penned by Mr Bingman senior

Door cards off -

step 1. - check where the window does not fit.
My passenger one was to far forward (you can see where it is supposed to be on the rubbers - indentation). this also threw out the curve by the front meeting point of the T-Bar.
In turn threw out the rear meeting point of the T-Bar.

Drivers side was only slightly forward and did not leak, but had some wind noise so worth doing.
step 2 - undo the front and rear glass guides. (the front guide top is held on by an over lock - come to that later).
Use the rear guide movement to line up with where you want it to be on the door jam seal.
Lock off the rear guide.
Step 3 - close the door slowly (basically offer it up to see how the glass lines up).
Don't slam it - on my 1st upper stop adjustment it was 1cm to high and would have shattered if slammed.
step 4 - if you have a gap at the top use the window upper stops to adjust this gap.( the window has an auto resistance stop mechanism that is used to stop the height. safety feature for hands etc). You may need to do this a couple of times to get it right.

Step 4 - front glass guide top 2 bolts are the adjustment for moving th eglass closer to the seals. adjust to suit and then use the overlock to lock in place.
step 5 - use the door trim supports to move the door trim closer to the glass - this helps stop them rattling when part way down etc.
I had been studying the BGB for about a week on and off to get it in my mind how each element reacted with each other.
Passenger side 20mins after door card off
Drivers side 15 mins with door card off.
total time about 2 hours as I used the time to rust proof the inside of the doors, grease up the sliders as it was all exposed. and refit some of the studs etc that hold the rubbers to the doors. basically should not have to go back into the doors for a few years now.
Once you get your head round it - it is quite simple.
Hope this helps.

[Ryan S]

ta mate. Annoyingly i don't have any gaps but i'm fairly certain the window needs pressed into the seal a bit harder. After replacing the t-bar seals it's made a maaaassive difference though!

[wilkie senior]

when i had the door card off when updating the interior

I noticed some bolts to tighten there, by the "pads" i bruched them up with a suede brush and nipped up the bolts a little at a time and stopped my window rattling

[jbliss]

If you have the BGB then there is a section on the window adjustment
With the doorcard off, you'll see two bolts on each of the window channels. These control how tight the window sits. Front one is under a locking bracket type thing. You'll be able to Identify them easy as the threaded part has an Allen socket.
Hope that makes sense. I'd link to the relevant BGB part but am on my phone

[Ryan S]

Thanks for this bud. I'll have a look in the bgb. My passenger window is getting worse