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And here is a short video of revving it with an open exhaust and intake. Lots of work is waiting with this one...
"lip" under the IC to catch some more air. And probably I should wrap the exhaust, but the silencer which is in front of IC, doesn't get very hot. Only pipes are hot, but there are not many of them. 
The car's looking awesome 
Magic Beans wrote:It's been a while, Lukas.
Can't wait to do all of this and test it on a track. It should be quite a different car. Apparently boost solenoid was connected wrong and it was overboosting. Also, after changing turbo and intake manifold my cruise AFR became very rich and it probably damaged spark plugs a bit as the car hesitated sometimes on boost. After mapping we connected turbo pressure directly to wastgate to check how much boost the WG is holding as tuner was afraid it can be too tight and cause overboosting. But when going home, boost was holding at around 0.8bar, so now I just need to connect the solenoid right. Just to remind, my IAT with side mount IC (it was the ARC) was around 70-80deg C on full boost (1,2bar with CT20). Now, with TD05 20G and big rear mount IC IAT on 1bar of boost was only around 35deg C. But tuner also noticed that temps should be lower as on cruise it was showing around 30deg C when outside temp was around 7degC. So when we were back in the garage, we took the sensor out and checked the temp (it was around 10degC in garage) and ECU showed 25degC. So it definitely needs recalibration. Anyway, IAT is not getting a lot high on boost when it was before (from 30 to 80 or so 
). Then I heard that fuel pump is not working when ignition is ON. I though please not again... I hate taking fuel tank off. But luckily I found blown EFI fuse. Changed it , but the car didn't start. Then I started to check wires and found a loose TPS wire (it was not well connected as I was in a hurry and later didn't do it either). Reconnected it and it started. But then again, I just started to boost and car died. EFI was blown again. Then I fitted another fuse and cruised home. So I guess there is another loose wire or bad isolation somewhere, so will have to check everything again. Glad you're back in the saddle mate craig wrote:Nice work.
This season will be mainly with the car getting ready back for a track, some more mods and maybe a few track days to get my skills back and hopefully next year I will be back in track fully ready I was quite careful during the first two runs and lost quite a lot of time then, but my third run was the best overall and here is the video of it: Need new synchros 
Finally finished door card template, now I just need to buy some plastic material and cut it.(well, I hope so). Removed impact bar, which helped to save a few kilos and cut the holes in a bumper, which also saved a few grams 
(almost). Appearantly it also needs a new flexi. But I am not sure whether to leave exhaust where it is or make it exit through the side vent. At first I thought to fit oil cooler there so don't know which way to choose.
In short, I bought a used turbo kit and didn't check that oil return hose is not for oil, but for water. And probably not resistant to heat. It melt and started leaking oil. Fortunately it holded up just until the finish and gave up just after my last run. Later I had to search right size hose from another place in my engine which was not a must so I could come back home. I borrowed one from idle control valve.
Under or just after the boost, brake pedal is terribly heavy and so I have to brake very early, because it take a second or so to start braking normally. I checked the valve in the brake booster, but it seems ok. I am wondering if it could be related to different intake manifold? The hole for the booster hose is of smaller diameter then in stock manifold and I think maybe it does not create vacuum in booster fast enough? So now I know where to look. Firstly, I will make the same diameter pipe in a manifold for brake booster and will see how it goes. But still I can't understand how pressure enters the booster if there is a valve. I changed 3 of them if I remember correctly. Stopped to pits, couple of turbo bols missing and another two are loose. 
So new gasket, new bolts, retightened them after engine got hot and let's go to a track.
Stock CT turbo has a holder to the block, this one doesn't. I have a good friend with some weding skills, let's talk to him. 2.25" diameter. Let's upgrade this while we are there.
+ bottleneck in midpipe
= new downpipe. Also bottleneck fixed. Now I can say it's full 3" exhaust
First from the top
More is better then less I suppose 
