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4age to 4agze conversion
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SuperRedMR2




Joined: 16 May 2005
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1990 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 5:55 pm    Post subject: 4age to 4agze conversion Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

just completed 4age to 4agze swap.

it cranks fine, spark is okay, fuel pump is coming on but have no fuel pressure at all

any ideas?
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Lauren
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Fuel pump faulty or faulty plumbing?
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SuperRedMR2




Joined: 16 May 2005
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1990 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

update:

Got fuel pressure, pump is running.

But the fuel is not going to the injectors, it's in the rail, bu the injectors are not firing. It's just going round and round in circles. It cranks fine, got spark, but no detonation from the injectors.

Does anyone have any idea where the AC Idle valve lives in the engine bay?
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jon_st205




Joined: 19 Feb 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Think the A/C is way over near the fuse box, certainly a valve there.

Injectors, is it a low vs. high impedence thing? Did you swap the resistor pack over (if there was one)?
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SuperRedMR2




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1990 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

I didn't receive another resistor pack with the engine.

I believe the 4AGZE injectors are 2ohm anyway.
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SuperRedMR2




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1990 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2017 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

There was a loose pin on ecu and injectors are firing but it won't start.

Are the coil packs different?
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Lauren
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

SuperRedMR2 wrote:

Are the coil packs different?


It's an early GZE isn't it? Then it will only have one coil. No coil packs as such.
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SuperRedMR2




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1990 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Its running.

Some reason the battery had something to do with it.

I've got to chop my N/A lid or relocate the battery, as the IC gets in the way.
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Lauren
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Stick your battery in the front, gets it out of the way.

You'll need ti seal the lid to the IC or it won't work properly. Or get an SC engine lid, it'll look better that way.

Glad you got it running. [thumbsup]
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SuperRedMR2




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1990 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Will prob stick battery in the boot, as shortens cables and I don't really use it anyway.

The air filter will go down the large gap uncovered by the battery relocation and the IC should be okay. I'll mod my lid and seal it with some foam like from your website [Smile]
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Lauren
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Wouldn't it be be better to put a cone filter in the boot, give you more room?
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boondougal




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1989 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

[Very Happy] ... it lives. great stuff
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SuperRedMR2




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1990 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Could do, but will probably make a duct for underneath the car into the space where the battery used to occupy, put the filter there for a cold air feed and put the battery in the boot.
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SuperRedMR2




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1990 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

The Sambo 'Xtreme' hoses I bought are xxxx. They are for turbo applications but not pressure?!

They sucked right in when the engine was started!

Anyone got any links for thick walled intercooler couplings?
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Lauren
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

SuperRedMR2 wrote:
Could do, but will probably make a duct for underneath the car into the space where the battery used to occupy, put the filter there for a cold air feed and put the battery in the boot.


Just a thought but you already have a setup in the boot with the ducting for the stock airbox. Stick a cone filter straight onto the tube that comes into the boot and job done. At least it will give a clear path of air to the intercooler, well a clearer path. Then pull the silly foam from the inner arch and you'll get a lovely induction noise piped in the cabin.

The right SAMCO hoses are fine, but should just be joining the hard pipes, there should be no real gap inbetween them, it should be an absolute minimum.
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Lauren
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Stick your air filter on like this:



On this early installation pic you can see where the intake ducting connects to the intake:



And finally a pic of my intercooler piping, I had hard pipes made up:



Note that there is very little gap between the pipes and intercooler etc, so no deforming of the hoses.
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SuperRedMR2




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1990 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

I tore all of the ducting out of my boot years ago.

I haven't ran an air filter in the boot for quite sometime either.

I'll have hard pipes made up when I get the car back to my house (currently on Mav122's driveway being made driveable [Wink]).

What are the stories about engine bay fires with the batteries?

I was going to leave a slight gap in between the pipes as I want to introduce an air temperature sensor so I can keep track of potential heat soak.
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Lauren
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

I reckon it's pretty easy and cheap to get hold of some ducting for the air filter. Will be a much neater job, but up to you of course.

A tiny gap is okay, but if your hoses are flexing, that's not good.

I don't know about any stories about engine fires with batteries. Most cars have their batteries in their engine bay.

It's no problem having the battery in the front, easy to do as well.



I just took the plastic pipes down to JP exhausts and got them to copy them in stainless. I had to cut down the intake a little bit (about 10mm or so) due to the radius of the pipes.
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SuperRedMR2




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1990 Toyota MR2 Mk1b

PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

I'll just buy some thin wall 50mm polished stainless and get our pipe fabricators to make me some.

With the battery in the front the cables are mega long and I've got to take my carpets up and most of interior to thread it through, whereas the boot is very short and it won't take long at all.
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Lauren
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

it's only one cable to thread through, so it's really not difficult. Just thread it through the passenger side by the sill. Easy! Also better for weight and all that to put it in the front. Then you can still use your boot. [thumbsup]
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