[Mk2] [Turbo] Low compression on new build motor

[Bear87]

Hi guys have bought a gen2 that engine was built in 2007 and since rebuild has not been run.
The engine has multiple mods cams, crank, rebuilt hybrid ct26 and forged pistons and rods.
Been having issues since bought but have got up and running. Having issues with knock but after a compression test only getting around 140 psi across all cylinders and barely 155psi with a tea spoon or two of oil in each cylinder with WOT.
But it smokes like crazy. Followed advice and checked all obvious causes.
Is it possible the rings need breaking in? Could they be stuck from sitting so long? And would it happen on all four cylinders?
Also could it cause knock? Sorry for all the questions but I really don't want to rebuild this myself due to lack of time and not sure could afford a rebuild.
Cheers Brad

[Danbob]

If it has not been run since the build then you should follow a break in procedure for your first drive don't let the car idle for too long. Go out and load up the engine through all gears without using full boost / or max rpm but driving fairly hard and getting the rings loaded up. In between pulls let the engine brake to pull vacuum through and such out the crap from around the rings.
Do this for 70 miles or so, then change oil and filter and continue doing it for another 500-600 miles, change oil and filter again.

There are lots of recommendations for break in procedures if you search online but they are usually along the lines of what I've written.

This should get the rings to bed in and seal properly, increasing compression and reducing oil consumption.

If the car has sat and idled too long and you are worried the cylinder walls are starting to glaze, there is special Millers glaze bust oil you can buy which apparently helps to reset the bed in process. (No info on how it is supposed to work)

Regarding the knock, low compression wouldn't normally cause this. What symptoms are you actually experiencing and during what conditions? Do you know what pistons you're running? What is your ignition timing set to?

[Bear87]

Im terrified have bu88ered up cylinders! I think i will try the millers glaze oil its reasonable too.
The issue i have is i cant drive the car due to the knock sensor fault. Get to 3k and it tops out. On occasions it does boost it goes a treat however suspect a 1bar actuator spring is fitted. Have replace knock sensor with genuine toyota sensor and replace wire etc. But code 52 keeps returning. Seems to be running super rich and often getting loud pops from exhaust when coming off throttle.
My ignition is set to 10 degrees but have found out i have stage 2 cams which im sure affects timing.
I dont know the brand of pistons but i know some are low compression.
However the oil is full of fuel. I have been going through engine looking for faults other members suggested and found that the oil in it is knakard. I hope this hasnt already done major damage.
The engine to the best of my belief was being built for 400hp but i just dont know how far he got i know the family said he got it running but was in a million bits when i purchased.
I hope can save this engine i love the car be nice to finaly get it on the road without the smoke screen following it.

[Danbob]

If you are still running a stock rev2 ecu, do you have a fuel cut defender fitted?

What injectors are fitted?

I know this pain, I also bought a prebuilt 400hp forged engine which was apparently perfect, I hope that you have better luck than I did!

[Bear87]

Yes still standard ecu and the standard 440cc injectors. I knew these and the turbo would have to be changed to have a chance at hitting the 400hp mark or anywhere close!
Yes has a FCD spliced into loom at ecu but as to if it works im not sure as havent got that far. It has an adjustment screw on it but have no instructions as to what way does what.
Currently trying to get it back to standard ish horsepower just to get it run in!

[Bear87]

Out of intrest danbob what did happen to your engine? Dare i ask