It's been a while since I've had my car running so I've forgotten a fair bit...
1. Bled the coolant which has eradicated the hunting when the car gets up to temp. The car idles smoothly at 1400rpm with the lights on and doesn't get any lower. Turn the lights off and it goes down to 950rpm with a little splutter or two...what's going on with that? I know the timing needs adjusting on the dizzy so that'll sort that?
2. The car ran for 20 mins (it had to be jumped) to get up to temperature so I could sort out the bleeding. Turned it off, then back on again fine. Turned it off, then on and it was as dead as a dodo. I've got a new alternator and no electrical issues any more with that as I have changed the loom. Does it need a full charge or is the battery shagged?
That's it for now.
Please advise
Alex
Questions
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Re: Questions
Battery, if your sure the alternator is good
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Re: Questions
Putting the lights on will activate the idle up vsv which will increase your idle rpm by approx 200rpm. Your warm idle should be around 8 or 900rpm.
Re: Questions
Have you tested the battery with a multimeter?
I had a reconditioned alternator that was screwed as soon as it arrived, although it took a few hours to drain the battery.
If you say it's dead almost immediately, you'll be able to see the voltage dropping with a multimeter.
I had a reconditioned alternator that was screwed as soon as it arrived, although it took a few hours to drain the battery.
If you say it's dead almost immediately, you'll be able to see the voltage dropping with a multimeter.
Re: Questions
SuperRedMR2 wrote:It's been a while since I've had my car running so I've forgotten a fair bit...
1. Bled the coolant which has eradicated the hunting when the car gets up to temp. The car idles smoothly at 1400rpm with the lights on and doesn't get any lower. Turn the lights off and it goes down to 950rpm with a little splutter or two...what's going on with that? I know the timing needs adjusting on the dizzy so that'll sort that?
2. The car ran for 20 mins (it had to be jumped) to get up to temperature so I could sort out the bleeding. Turned it off, then back on again fine. Turned it off, then on and it was as dead as a dodo. I've got a new alternator and no electrical issues any more with that as I have changed the loom. Does it need a full charge or is the battery shagged?
That's it for now.
Please advise
Alex
Prob battery. But did you connect the -ve jump lead to the battery or part of the engine / gearbox? If the latter check that the ground between -ve bat and gear box is good - connect a single jump lead from -ve bat to engine - does it start?
Re: Questions
Try putting the battery on a charger for 12 hours and see how that works. 20 minutes running at idle will not charge a flat battery.
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Re: Questions
It's on charge now