Questions

Discussion and technical advice for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE.

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SuperRedMR2
Posts: 5494
Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 8:40 pm
Location: Wickford, Essex

Questions

Post by SuperRedMR2 »

It's been a while since I've had my car running so I've forgotten a fair bit...

1. Bled the coolant which has eradicated the hunting when the car gets up to temp. The car idles smoothly at 1400rpm with the lights on and doesn't get any lower. Turn the lights off and it goes down to 950rpm with a little splutter or two...what's going on with that? I know the timing needs adjusting on the dizzy so that'll sort that?

2. The car ran for 20 mins (it had to be jumped) to get up to temperature so I could sort out the bleeding. Turned it off, then back on again fine. Turned it off, then on and it was as dead as a dodo. I've got a new alternator and no electrical issues any more with that as I have changed the loom. Does it need a full charge or is the battery shagged?

That's it for now.

Please advise

Alex
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oukie
Posts: 2474
Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 7:34 pm
Location: Fife

Re: Questions

Post by oukie »

Battery, if your sure the alternator is good
Mk1b White T-bar SC 1987, Mk1b White coupe Jan90, Mk1b White coupe Jan90 (spares), Mk1b Mica blue T-bar Mar90, Mk1b Mica blue T-bar,full climate control,Jan90, 5 mk1's :)
jimi
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:27 am
Location: Kingdom of Fife
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Re: Questions

Post by jimi »

Putting the lights on will activate the idle up vsv which will increase your idle rpm by approx 200rpm. Your warm idle should be around 8 or 900rpm.
dylbie
Posts: 195
Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2007 10:15 am
Location: Bath, UK

Re: Questions

Post by dylbie »

Have you tested the battery with a multimeter?

I had a reconditioned alternator that was screwed as soon as it arrived, although it took a few hours to drain the battery.

If you say it's dead almost immediately, you'll be able to see the voltage dropping with a multimeter.
jimzzr
Posts: 34
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2014 8:54 pm

Re: Questions

Post by jimzzr »

SuperRedMR2 wrote:It's been a while since I've had my car running so I've forgotten a fair bit...

1. Bled the coolant which has eradicated the hunting when the car gets up to temp. The car idles smoothly at 1400rpm with the lights on and doesn't get any lower. Turn the lights off and it goes down to 950rpm with a little splutter or two...what's going on with that? I know the timing needs adjusting on the dizzy so that'll sort that?

2. The car ran for 20 mins (it had to be jumped) to get up to temperature so I could sort out the bleeding. Turned it off, then back on again fine. Turned it off, then on and it was as dead as a dodo. I've got a new alternator and no electrical issues any more with that as I have changed the loom. Does it need a full charge or is the battery shagged?

That's it for now.

Please advise

Alex


Prob battery. But did you connect the -ve jump lead to the battery or part of the engine / gearbox? If the latter check that the ground between -ve bat and gear box is good - connect a single jump lead from -ve bat to engine - does it start?
jimi
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Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:27 am
Location: Kingdom of Fife
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Re: Questions

Post by jimi »

Try putting the battery on a charger for 12 hours and see how that works. 20 minutes running at idle will not charge a flat battery.
SuperRedMR2
Posts: 5494
Joined: Mon May 16, 2005 8:40 pm
Location: Wickford, Essex

Re: Questions

Post by SuperRedMR2 »

It's on charge now :thumleft:
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