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JLW's ( REV 3 GT spec Turbo, smg Tbar ) YVS Performance Built
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JLW




Joined: 14 Jul 2015
Posts: 582
Location: Tunbridge Wells
Feedback Score: 8



PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

So spent a little time over the weekend cleaning up the exhaust whilst I had
the alternator off the car, started with brushing on harp toilet cleaner and
then left to bake, then washed and dried off.



The followed up with elbow grease and autosol. Not as good as I could get it.
but definitely a lot better then it was. Hope it stays like this a little longer !



And more importantly my collected alternator with a new regulator fitted and
ready to be put back on.

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JLW




Joined: 14 Jul 2015
Posts: 582
Location: Tunbridge Wells
Feedback Score: 8



PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

So had last week off work, and spent Monday and Tuesday refitting the
alternator and some other smaller jobs that I had postponed.
First up was fitting a "MR2Ben" drinks holder and windscreen Ariel that I had
ordered from Ebay since I had deleted my OEM Ariel about a year back, and
never had Radio since.

Plastics off and Toyota blanking plate removed



Then cable tied and tucked the wiring neatly back
whilst fitting the Ariel connector.



And back together, the drinks holder is only cheap and
of a more grey then black as opposed to my plastics, however
it works and I'm sure some detailing gear would bring it "back to black"



Then it was onto fitting the alternator back into place and connecting again,
have to say it went back in a lot easier then it came out !
Didn't bother taking any photos of this, but got a few of the underside.
still not a bit of rust in sight [Very Happy]



Whilst the exhaust was off the car, I decided to paint the rusty boot heat shield.
it wasn't too bad, but why not.



Gave it a wire brush off and coated with Halfords VHT black, came out much
more matt then expected, considering it was supposed to be "Metallic black"
But oh well, it will match the matt crinkle VHT I intend to use in the engine bay
soon anyway.




Refitted, looks better in person, I didn't use any base / primer so am sure thats
the reason its patchy, but it was more of a quick job that could easily be
rectified in the future if I bother.



And then back on with the exhaust.




Finally a job that needed doing, I've posted about how I did this with my
wheels prior to the powdercoating so will keep it basic, But basically wanted
to coat the wheels with a glass quart sealant.

Started by removing all wheels, then steps as follows:
1. Iron fall out remover and jet washed
2. Dried with microfibre
3. Polished by hand with Menzerma 3500
4. Applied Gyeon Q2 quartz rim

Ive already noticed that with hard braking the dust simply isn't sticking like it
does when they are not coated, highly recommended.






Cars all back together and ready for the mapping session this Friday at
Fensport to correct the map voltage issue. Should be interesting considering ..
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craig




Joined: 18 Dec 2004
Posts: 43757
Location: York
Feedback Score: 141

1994 Toyota MR2 Mk2 Turbo Rev3

PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Nice work fella, car's looking great. Hope all goes well with the mapping!
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JAAASH
IMOC Moderator



Joined: 24 Dec 2010
Posts: 1336
Location: Mid Wales or Chester
Feedback Score: 36

1996 Toyota MR2 Mk2 Turbo Rev3

PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

How long is that Gyeon stuff supposed to last? Is it like a wax or liquid?

Also hope mapping goes well Friday mate [thumleft]
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"What the Deuce?!"

My MR2 Build - http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=174494
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JLW




Joined: 14 Jul 2015
Posts: 582
Location: Tunbridge Wells
Feedback Score: 8



PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

JAAASH wrote:
How long is that Gyeon stuff supposed to last? Is it like a wax or liquid?

Also hope mapping goes well Friday mate [thumleft]


Hi Bud

I think its supposed time for lasting is between 6-12 months,
it comes in a liquid form that you pipette onto a suede cloth and
apply with the applicator. You have to be quick when applying it. coat the
surface of the wheel then allow 2 minutes max after finishing to then buff off
thoroughly.

If you leave for longer then you'll spend hours trying to buff off, maybe even
having to use a DA ! I did the inside of the wheels also. make sure the wheels
are prepped properly also.
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JLW




Joined: 14 Jul 2015
Posts: 582
Location: Tunbridge Wells
Feedback Score: 8



PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

So haven't posted in a while. Its been stressful getting the car mapped
correctly for sure ! Ill try to keep it as brief as possible, as my god this was
drama from start to end.

So I had come to an agreement with Adrian @ Fensport that because he had
not kept log files to confirm if the car, was or was not mapped at the 16v,
that if I reconditioned or replaced the alternator and brought it back up, Tom
and he would carry out the map corrections FOC. So I had refitted the
alternator and carried out some other work as above ( taking a day off work to
do so ) and then booked in with Fensport and travelled up. ( 2:30hrs there )
They fitted the map gear and got 5 minutes up the road and drove back.
"17V" !!!! I couldn't believe it, they showed me on the mapping laptop
and I immediately called Curd Bros and spoke to Paul. Instead of trying
to relay the info between the specialists I put the phone on loudspeaker
and let them hash it out between them, Paul asked us to carry out a series
of checks which involved putting the car on the ramp and checking each point
to measure the voltage from.

This made no difference and reluctantly Paul admitted fault, I told him he
would be replacing with a brand new alternator and fit for me FOC.
However I had wasted a whole tanks fuel going up and back, a day of work
but most importantly I had wasted the opportunity of getting the map
corrections FOC which we had agreed. Adrian spoke to me and said he wouldn't
charge for the 2 hours of inspection work, and said asked that we start fresh
with the next mapping session to which I agreed. After all it was a waste of
their time also.

Tom raised the voltage limit on the ECU to 25v, and I drove home with my tail between
my legs and straight to Curd Bros where I proceeded to hit my
Aeroware lip into their drive and scuff the face badly FFS. By this time I was
done, I handed the keys to Paul and said "FIX !"

A couple of days later I had a call saying its got a new alternator on it and its
ready to collect, Paul had been still trying to get out of it and saying it was
running at 14v when he tested the car and we even had a bit of a argument
over the phone. However he later apologised as he realised I was purely stuck
between two specialists telling me different things. I collected the car and then
a week later made another 5 hour round trip to Fensport !

I had checked the voltage on the correct point the day before with my
multimeter to make sure, and it showed a nice and steady 14v
But when I got there, I asked Tom to check and make sure it was,
17V again ! .... I said that cannot be right ! , I was about to smash something but
sense prevailed and I said "check that multimeter" Tom checked it and it was
running 3v higher then it should....

I immediately thought, was this all because of the multimeter ?
but then remembered I had seen the laptop showing the spiking also.
So Adrian and Tom installed the mapping gear and were gone for 2 hours,
bought the car back and finally said its all good.

I drove the car home 200 lighter excluding the two tanks of fuel I had put in
and the fact I potentially have a 75 fine for the dartford bridge that initial
time ( was not in the right state of mind to remember to pay ! ) but I drove
home with the car finally working the way it should. And it drives great.

conservatively mapped at 1bar considering my stock turbo and fuel setup, so
would expect around 300bhp ish, but at least I can enjoy the rest of 2017
and think about next years big turbo setup to finally finish the forged build.

Yes, its been drama !
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Red Devil




Joined: 02 Sep 2006
Posts: 624
Location: Kent
Feedback Score: 4



PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

JLW wrote:
I had checked the voltage on the correct point the day before with my
multimeter to make sure, and it showed a nice and steady 14v
But when I got there, I asked Tom to check and make sure it was,
17V again ! .... I said that cannot be right ! , I was about to smash something but
sense prevailed and I said "check that multimeter" Tom checked it and it was
running 3v higher then it should....

Srewth... [Exclamation] What else might not be calibrated properly?

JLW wrote:

conservatively mapped at 1bar considering my stock turbo and fuel setup, so
would expect around 300bhp ish,

I think that figure is a tad ambitious at only 1bar on a stock CT20b and fuelling.
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JLW




Joined: 14 Jul 2015
Posts: 582
Location: Tunbridge Wells
Feedback Score: 8



PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Hi Mate

Yeah was thinking 300ish , but maybe lower. hard to tell without a dyno.
Engines built for 500 by YVS so just need larger turbo and fuel setup etc.
at least its driving correctly now.
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Red Devil




Joined: 02 Sep 2006
Posts: 624
Location: Kent
Feedback Score: 4



PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

JLW wrote:
at least its driving correctly now.

In which case check your Inbox! [Mr. Green]
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JLW




Joined: 14 Jul 2015
Posts: 582
Location: Tunbridge Wells
Feedback Score: 8



PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

So, Ive just been enjoying the car as it is recently, but 2 years of dealing with
the Aeroware lip has become too much, Its soo low !
I'm not sure if this is because of it being Poly and they are bulkier ?
its limiting where I can park it and even scrapes on high camber roads !

So I've played with the idea of different front bumpers, at first and until
recently I was certain I was going for a Border front. However upon asking
people they have mentioned that it can be just as difficult due to the length
of the bumper. And since thats the main reason for changing thats now out
of the question.

So my second and now favourable option is a Bomex front, albeit with a
difference.

https://www.driftworks.com/forum/threads/gavs-600bhp-2bar-cp-carrillo-tte-powered-mr2-time-attack-project.114410/page-10

Added some pictures of Gav's old car below which is now broken up and sold.






Yes I know this wont aid in my problem, but as long I don't make it protude
excessively then I still honestly think I'll be in a better situation then the OEM
+ Poly Aeroware.

I don't intend to make it out of carbon at first. Marine ply painted black, to see
if it scrapes to bad. Then if all ok ill construct exactly the same as the car in
the link.

The plan is to incorporate this with carbon sill add-ons that Nigel at Glass Fibre
Products makes, And potentially a change from the OEM rear + PP spats
and change to a TOM's rear.

Thoughts ?


Last edited by JLW on Fri Oct 13, 2017 9:40 am; edited 1 time in total
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markstevieandmads




Joined: 05 Aug 2013
Posts: 1725
Location: Swindon, Wilts
Feedback Score: 4

1993 Toyota MR2 Mk2 Turbo Rev2

PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Your car is one of the best looking on the forum. I know the lip can be a pain but id personally keep it as it is.
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JLW




Joined: 14 Jul 2015
Posts: 582
Location: Tunbridge Wells
Feedback Score: 8



PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

markstevieandmads wrote:
Your car is one of the best looking on the forum. I know the lip can be a pain but id personally keep it as it is.


Mate, its too much. slight deviations in the road and it scrapes.
If it was a trailer queen then yes maybe I'd deal with it. However its
built to be a fast road car. Yes I've put a lot of attention into Aesthetics,
But its driven and driven hard. The constant fear of the front lip ripping off
is not something you want in the back of your mind whilst Hooning !
Takes your mind of what your doing as i'm sure you understand.
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craig




Joined: 18 Dec 2004
Posts: 43757
Location: York
Feedback Score: 141

1994 Toyota MR2 Mk2 Turbo Rev3

PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Your car must be mega low mate. I have a stock front bumper and Aeroware poly lip. I've never had an issue with it.

It once lightly grazed a speed bump, but that was it.
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Sbsoulby
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Joined: 15 May 2017
Posts: 51
Location: Lincolnshire
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Understand your problem mate, my car is pretty much exactly the same looking as yours barring the wheels, my aerowave scrapes on dodgy roads and even coming out my drive and I'm on stock suspension
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Red Devil




Joined: 02 Sep 2006
Posts: 624
Location: Kent
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 1:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

JLW wrote:
So, Ive just been enjoying the car as it is recently, but 2 years of dealing with
the Aeroware lip has become too much, Its soo low !
I'm not sure if this is because of it being Poly and they are bulkier ?
its limiting where I can park it and even scrapes on high camber roads !

One of the guys I know on MR2OC had similar issues with his and has reverted to the stock Rev 3 lip for that very reason.

JLW wrote:

So my second and now favourable option is a Bomex front, albeit with a
difference.

https://www.driftworks.com/forum/threads/gavs-600bhp-2bar-cp-carrillo-tte-powered-mr2-time-attack-project.114410/page-10

I know that's Gav Whiting's car without even opening the link. [Smile]
Quite unmistakeable with those orange wheels.
Saw it several times at events (e.g. Brands Hatch, BHP show, etc)
Lived (lives?) near Hastings. I think he broke it for parts in the end but I'm not sure.

I have a Bomex UAD180 lip (the one with the winglets) on my Rev 5.
It's only a problem on excessively raised (i.e. illegal) road humps/tables.
However I think if you copy Gav's set up you'll still encounter some of the issues you have now.
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JLW




Joined: 14 Jul 2015
Posts: 582
Location: Tunbridge Wells
Feedback Score: 8



PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Thanks Bud, I've actually made contact with him now that you let me know,
In the photo's from the link he had his car slammed on the coilovers so its
really how much the splitter would extend out the front that would be the issue.
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Red Devil




Joined: 02 Sep 2006
Posts: 624
Location: Kent
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

[thumleft]

Please text me asap. You have my contact number via PM.
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fastasfkk
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Joined: 15 Sep 2015
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 10:40 pm    Post subject: Gavs car Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

That car got broke round a tree scrap
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JLW




Joined: 14 Jul 2015
Posts: 582
Location: Tunbridge Wells
Feedback Score: 8



PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

So a couple of weeks back I had started on a list of small things I had complied
that I wanted to do on the car, Little jobs that are bugging me, and small
modifications etc. Two of which I managed quickly.

1. Find out why my heater unit was stuck on hot.
2. Modify the pop up headlights to drop back down after flashing on sidelights.

I wish I had never started playing with these AC/Heater units when I first
bought the car ( modified with LED's ) as its only ever caused issues since.
But one thing that was a real PITA has been the second unit I bought to
substitute the failed attempt that SBITS created, unbeknown to me it was
missing a easily transferable plug in that screws onto the heat slider.
Not having this connected must have meant that the last time I operated
the LED nightmare unit SBITS made, I must have had it on full heat.
and its been stuck on that ever since.

Swapped it over



And then proceeded to almost have a mental breakdown re-fitting the plastics,
My god, is it just me or is the cigarette lighter assembly the most over
complicated F**KING thing in the world. Still not perfect but it will do !



I didn't document with two many photos the next stage, but would be happy to
talk anyone through how I did it, very easy, just a little fiddly. But as I'm sure
most of you will appreciate. It makes life a little bit easier [Smile]

First off you start by cutting the rear right hand side red wire on the blue block
in the frunk, and its as simple as getting a switch and connecting some wire
to each end to make a break in the circuit when needed.
A switch is ideal as its a simple click when the headlights need to be serviced /
washed etc.



Then I attached spade connecters to each end to slip onto the switch



And bam. Now when I flash someone with the sidelights on, the headlights drop back down again,
instead of having to turn the lights off and back on.
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