[Mk2] [Turbo] Is my ECU dead? Rev2 tubby

[lee66]

The EML does not illuminate when I turn the ignition on. Car cranks but does not fire.

Last work to be done on the car (used it twice since then and it worked fine) was me and my mate replaced the alternator belt because it was squealing like crazy on cold startup.
I have since jacked the car up and checked around the area we was working and checked we didn't knock anything and no wires are loose.

I had the ecu apart and checked the board and cant see any signs of anything burnt out or anything but after searching the net it seems my problem is more than likely a dead ecu, I think?
Not sure if it will help, but the numbers on my ecu are; 89661 - 17322.

My car is also fitted with a Clifford G5 alarm. The keyfob works fine (doors lock/unlock). I tried entering the Blackjax code incase my fob wasn't doing what it was meant to, and it made no difference - so I am pretty sure its not the alarm that's goosed, but i am not certain because when I first bought the car, it had the same problem as it has now apart from when you enter the code in manually, the car started.

I cant really afford to get it into a garage at the moment due to being out of work, and there is only one ecu on ebay at the moment that matches the same numbers that are on mine, and its quite pricey so don't want to order it if this is not my problem.
Is there any way I can check to be 100% sure its my ecu that is at fault before I order one??

Hope I have given enough details and fingers crossed I can get my car back on the road asap


Many thanks, Lee.[/url]

[Martin F]

I had a similar problem once, after a bit of fault finding I suspected the relay in the engine bay, my mate came round and I borrowed his, engine light came back on and car started, was a £8 fix in the end, not sure if that is what is wrong with your car but every reply helps

[2mad]

Hells bells, I just looked on ebay for a cheap replacement ecu .. Mr2 bens selling one for £135 plus postage Damn I sold my last one for £35 .. maybe someone living in or around blackpool with a rev1 tubby could help you out (let you borrow there ecu) .. Also if needed put a want in the wanted section for a rev1 turbo ecu

[Peter Gidden]

Check engine bay fuses are live with ignition switched on. If they're not live, them 99% immobiliser is causing you a problem.

To check fuel pump circuit, short out B+ and FP in diagnostic port.

I wouldn't immediately be blaming ECU when you have an immobiliser that has historical issues.

[2mad]

So much this ^^ Brake out the multimeter and also check the fuses buddy .


It would be odd to immobilize the ecu doesn't mean it has not been done though.

[lee66]

I had a similar problem once, after a bit of fault finding I suspected the relay in the engine bay, my mate came round and I borrowed his, engine light came back on and car started, was a £8 fix in the end, not sure if that is what is wrong with your car but every reply helps

I forgot to mention actually, I already tried swapping the relays out (snatched a cheap last min bargain on a joblot of mr2 relays).

I have not checked with a multimeter however (not really sure what im doing with one )

[lee66]

Hells bells, I just looked on ebay for a cheap replacement ecu .. Mr2 bens selling one for £135 plus postage Damn I sold my last one for £35 .. maybe someone living in or around blackpool with a rev1 tubby could help you out (let you borrow there ecu) .. Also if needed put a want in the wanted section for a rev1 turbo ecu

That was the one I spotted, and I also thought it was expensive. Unfortunately though I don't know anybody else with an mr2, and that is the only one on there though that matches up with same numbers as I have.
Will stick a message in the wanted section though deffo won't hurt

[lee66]

Check engine bay fuses are live with ignition switched on. If they're not live, them 99% immobiliser is causing you a problem.

To check fuel pump circuit, short out B+ and FP in diagnostic port.

I wouldn't immediately be blaming ECU when you have an immobiliser that has historical issues.

Don't mean to sound stupid but how can I do this mate? I will go and check it now

By shorting them out, is that just bridging a piece of wire between B+ and FP?





Thank you all for any replies

[2mad]

Check engine bay fuses are live with ignition switched on. If they're not live, them 99% immobiliser is causing you a problem.

To check fuel pump circuit, short out B+ and FP in diagnostic port.

I wouldn't immediately be blaming ECU when you have an immobiliser that has historical issues.

Don't mean to sound stupid but how can I do this mate? I will go and check it now

By shorting them out, is that just bridging a piece of wire between B+ and FP?



Thank you all for any replies

Unimmobilize the car, use a piece of wire to bridge B+ and FP in the diagnostic port in the engine bay and switch on the ignition .. you should hear the fuel pump come on and start pumping.





Ps. don't try and start the car, just switch on ignition (second click)

[2mad]

I have not checked with a multimeter however (not really sure what im doing with one )

With your multi meter set to 12v.. Just ground the black probe and touch the red to both legs of the 7.5 amp engine bay fuse with the car unimmobilized and ingnition on (2 clicks) .. you should see 12v at the fuse if all is ok.. you dont have to take the fuse out just touch the red probe to the exposed part of the fuse on top, if you see what i mean


To check the fuse is ok use continuity check on the multimeter .. remove the fuse and probe both legs at the same time.. you should get a beep if its ok .. or just look through the fuse see if the elements ok

[markstevieandmads]

If your not.getting.a eml I'd be shorting some terminals at the ecu end to prove the eml circuit (can't remember which but it was posted by me a while back when having similar probs).
Mine was faulty afm.

[lee66]

I have not checked with a multimeter however (not really sure what im doing with one )

With your multi meter set to 12v.. Just ground the black probe and touch the red to both legs of the 7.5 amp engine bay fuse with the car unimmobilized and ingnition on (2 clicks) .. you should see 12v at the fuse if all is ok.. you dont have to take the fuse out just touch the red probe to the exposed part of the fuse on top, if you see what i mean


To check the fuse is ok use continuity check on the multimeter .. remove the fuse and probe both legs at the same time.. you should get a beep if its ok .. or just look through the fuse see if the elements ok

Thank you for the info mate. I have been out this morning with the multimeter and with the alarm disarmed and the ignition on, the 7.5 amp fuse is only reading 0.16v. The fuse itself looks fine.
The big power wire with 2 nuts holding it down in the fuse box is reading 12v.

I also tried to bridge a wire between B+ and FP and didnt hear my fuel pump.
The only noise the car makes when I turn my ignition on is the steering pump sounds louder than usual (does the same without a wire bridged between B+ and FP).

Does this mean there is a fault with my alarm/immob? And where can I go from here? I feel like I have hit a brick wall



Thanks, Lee.

[2mad]

Suggesting you visually check the fuse was a horrible idea of mine (you should always continuity test fuses) its absolutely critical you know if its popped or not . pull a 10amp fuse from something like the radio, one you know 100% works and swop it for the 7.5 ecu fuse .. and try starting the car.


If still no joy I would start looking at the immobilizer.. problem with that is I cant really give out how to de-immobilize an mr2 turbo information .


Might be a good idea to have a Clifford sparky give the alarm/immobilizer the once over.. What clifford concept do you have .


Ps. does the car turn over , just not start .

[lee66]

Suggesting you visually check the fuse was a horrible idea of mine (you should always continuity test fuses) its absolutely critical you know if its popped or not . pull a 10amp fuse from something like the radio, one you know 100% works and swop it for the 7.5 ecu fuse .. and try starting the car.


If still no joy I would start looking at the immobilizer.. problem with that is I cant really give out how to de-immobilize an mr2 turbo information .


Might be a good idea to have a Clifford sparky give the alarm/immobilizer the once over.. What clifford concept do you have .


Ps. does the car turn over , just not start .

I did do a continuity test aswell as visually check the 7.5 amp fuse, but I also tried a working 10 amp fuse hoping that might sort it and still had no joy

Yes the car turns over fine it just wont fire up.

My alarm is a Clifford Concept 650.

Phoning a Clifford sparky would probably be my best bet like you say but I can't really afford there call out fee's at the moment (was recently made redundant). I will try phone some local auto eleccy or something during the week and hopefully they will be able to work there magic on it for not much £££ lol.


Many thanks for the help
Lee

[Danbob]

If you still need one I have a good Rev 2 Turbo ECU for sale here:

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... highlight=

At what I think is a reasonable price.

Let me know if you want it

[2mad]

Its a shame i'm between mr2's at the mo or I would go out and try and induce the problem on my car to try and work out why you have no power to the ecu fuse and fuel pump, such an odd problem (if its not the immobilizer).

When the car was running ok if you tried turning the car over with the immobilizer on would the car turn over ? and just not start .


Have you continuity checked all fuses and links under the bonnet (stab in the dark).


Kev.

[lee66]

Its a shame i'm between mr2's at the mo or I would go out and try and induce the problem on my car to try and work out why you have no power to the ecu fuse and fuel pump, such an odd problem (if its not the immobilizer).

When the car was running ok if you tried turning the car over with the immobilizer on would the car turn over ? and just not start .


Have you continuity checked all fuses and links under the bonnet (stab in the dark).


Kev.

Nah the only fuse I continuity checked was the 7.5 amp..
I visually checked every fuse I could find a couple of weeks back and none looked like they had blown, I did however replace the big 120 amp and 80 amp pal fuses what are in the frunk because they didn't look in the best shape.

To be honest I don't think I ever tried to start it without turning the immobilizer off. When I first bought the car though, it would not start if I just unarmed the car with the fob, I had to enter the 4 digit code on the blackjax thing, and then the EML light illuminated on the dash (then it would fire up nps).

Also maybe something to do with it but probably not lol (just having a wild guess really lol) but starting a few weeks prior to it not starting at all, every so often the car would stall at a junction like it didn't have enough rev's, however it always started straight back up no problem and it drove 100%.

[lee66]

If you still need one I have a good Rev 2 Turbo ECU for sale here:

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic. ... highlight=

At what I think is a reasonable price.

Let me know if you want it

Nice one mate, hopefully I wont need it but I will let you know asap if I do or not within the next week or so (hoping to get a sparky round one day this week).

Cheers for letting us know though mate appreciate it

[Peter Gidden]

Looking at fuses is about as useful as mudguards on a tortoise.

Use a DVM and test them properly.

[2mad]

it would not start if I just unarmed the car with the fob, I had to enter the 4 digit code on the blackjax thing, and then the EML light illuminated on the dash (then it would fire up nps).

I'm going to say immobilizer because of that quote .. my guess is the 7.5 amp ecu fuse has been immobilized plus the fuel pump .. unknown if the starter has been done (don't know if a concept 650 has 2 or 3 point immobilizer).

I would be looking at the clifford from the information you have given me .



Kev.

Ps. your ecu code is for a rev1 turbo mate.