Moderators: IMOC Moderators, IMOC Committee Members
It really stung me how much it cost me, when I worked out how much I would have spent on fuel it really shocked me, that was the main reason I sold it.£10 wherever I went in it 
£350: £150 (still have 4mm left 
)£60£70£10: sealant @ £10 (DIY repair)(£30 oil + filter): £150:£150£350+ labour for diagnosing : £330£13£20(i've only done small things):-Clear indicators: £70-clear repeators: £25-rear strut brace: £125-Radiator mesh: £20-Locking wheel nuts: £30
-gear gator: £40-door bezel: £10-boot spring: £50... sh|t i've spent too bloody much, cant believe all that. WTF, how the hell have i paid for all that ive spent about £1300 in petrol too. you've got me scared now 
£150 on pads and discs all round,£150 fitting,£297, full C service including platium spark plugs (i was stung there i feel)£120 EACH including valves and fitting,£260-270,£120 for PI -40mm, fitting cost around £150 for these also!! £10er wipers,£40, Steering rack, hour fitting £40£35 each, plus £10 for each filter.£18, fitting an hour=£40!£10!£1million on optimax!! (ive done 8k miles since march)[/url]jimGTS wrote:bought my rev2 tubby in march!
so far,
rear tyres,
NEEDED NEW FRONT LEFT STRUT!!
so, had to buy 2 FRONT BILSTEIN STRUTS from fensport,
MOT
2 oil changes,
Thermostat problems,
thermostat,
temp sender,
and around
£1900 a year fully comp its costing me to be insured!!£960 fully comp from Tescos last year when I was 21! I thought that was really good 
MattLaw wrote:My insurance on a rev 3 GTS was only
... I can't even do a quote online for the same car any more.MattLaw wrote:That was as a standard car, and I had 4 years NCB then.
Two main ones are: How you drive/treat the car How the previous owner drove/treated the car(apart from the obvious like insurance and petrol), with the only major financial outlay being on mods and decent tyres.-*- Mk2 Turbo Rev2 -*- Mk1 NA -*- Mk2 Turbo Rev 3 = all gone!"Cruisey, Sporty, more innovation, more adult. A Man In Dandism. Powered mid-ship specialty."£180 ?? I spend a lot more than that$$$$ as well .. wish I'd just kept the MR2 
Nige wrote:Estimating the running costs for a tubby isn't easy, as there are too many factors to consider.
1.
2.
My last tubby hardly cost me anything to run
All the oil had leaked out and it had spun one of the conrod bearings..lund wrote:OK this might be ANOTHER extreme case but in the last year I have managed 3 weeks of trouble free driving.
1 year ago I bought an N reg rev 3 three weeks later it was on the back of a AA lorry.
when I got the car i changed the oil and filter as matter of routine and switched thecoolant back to the Toyota one noticed that the engine was covered in oil and made a mental note to fix this after the christmas period drove local for a few weeks no probs great fun etc went up to see a friend and the oil light cam on on the motorway and the engine died striaght away.
Long story short after this was fixed the oil seals on the turbo let more oil out than they kept in and a piston cracked etc.
Moral of the story I enjoyed driving the MR2 though it is a distant memory and they are excellent cars and despite my experience would strongly recommend them it is so important that you find one that has been meticulously looked after with all the history in order
Lets just hope it is just another extreme case. it cost me no more to run than any other car i've owned, excluding fuel and insurance. if you buy a good one, of which there are a lot and don't mod it, running costs are on a par with any performance car. mine was completly reliable in the 4 years that i had it. i would definatly buy another, and an seriously tempted to buy another as a track car. running costs including fuel, tyres and insurance have been about the same to date.