So, like the rest of the world, I'm staying home as we speak due to the corona
virus crisis.
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However, it has given me plenty of time to get tonnes of smaller,
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and larger jobs I had listed on the car done.
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And in the process of doing more.
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The first I wanted to tackle was re-routing the launch control switch from a
switch quickly installed just off the Link ECU in the boot, during the mapping
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session.
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Through the car onto the dash.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/zuGfJUc.jpg)
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Amazon as always has been great service during this time, and within a couple
of days of ordering, received 20mts of simple automotive 12v wire.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/dUluvlG.jpg)
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At first, I thought about running it through a hole in the engine bay wall, into
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the bay, and then trying to find a tidy route.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/rWoxmGt.jpg)
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/YXs52EU.jpg)
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/9L84ZMV.jpg)
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Started removing the passenger bucket seat
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& trim panels on the left side of
the car.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/bO2gtft.jpg)
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/XeSvg1w.jpg)
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/edfFWvP.jpg)
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However during this time, I had posted on
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"MR2 Owners" on FB asking the best
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route to run the wire, Someone suggested to run it through the arch from the
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boot and miss the bay entirely.
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This turned out to be pretty much how I did it,
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but with a little bit of the bay to save drilling a hole into the car.
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I either, ran it through the left side arch, past the fuel filler neck and then drilled a hole
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into the single skin that allowed passage into the cabin.
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Or ran
the arch, then took a turn into the left side air vent seal, and then a short
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distance for about 15cm.
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Where I can then join the main engine loom and run
along with that through the large grommet in the bay and straight to the dash.
https://imgur.com/zUw3ZTD
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The latter option is the one I went for, and glad I did.
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made it much easier.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/K2uxpEG.jpg)
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/8G1vm2R.jpg)
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/f26M5ku.jpg)
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/IW16Lxg.jpg)
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A cane of bamboo came in handy here, making running the wire through the
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arch, really easy.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/0DnWtNF.jpg)
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I also made sure, wherever there was the potential for the wire fouling on
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anything, that I wrapped this in multiple layers of electrical tape to protect.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/RTP3jrc.jpg)
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As mentioned, I then followed the loom, managing to get into the loom shroud
and straight up to the dash, also tidying existing wires as I went.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/mWKStyf.jpg)
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/w9fUe4B.jpg)
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Once the wire was routed in under the arm rest and under the dash plastics.
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I then checked the position I wanted the switch.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/JgTMtiL.jpg)
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Here would be ideal, and where I finally picked.
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the only problem being the
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actual dash behind and the clearance needed, I checked as best as possible.
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And found it would be ok, but may need the tabs on the switch bent down a
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little.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/LSDfbhf.jpg)
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/IoJfnH7.jpg)
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And here is the switch fitted and showing how it works
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( VIDEO LINK
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)
https://imgur.com/1jh0NVO
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I'm not one for tacky or gimmicky stuff, I prefer the classier approach.
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But for something so cool as a
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"Launch Control Switch" you have to have a
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OTT switch.
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Before refitting everything, I thought it best to check the switch worked.
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All good, it switched between activating the 2 step LC, mapped into the Link G4
and then again deactivating, allowing you to rev to the limiter freely.
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The spade connectors and wire I used to do so, then came in handy to check
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the clearance issue I though I would have.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/pNa4Utw.jpg)
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/mFSJK9J.jpg)
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As you can see, by being bent down, its touching, but not causing any issues.
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And does not make the dash trim sit awkward at all.
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So I then made new
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connectors and finished the job.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/aQknKfV.jpg)
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During fitting the dash trims back, I removed the cheap cup holder and tray
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and replaced with a Toyota panel it originally ran.
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I intend to get a double din
touch radio as it really smartens and brings up the interior.
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But for now this is
better.
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Also, the plastics are painted to replicate piano black you get in modern cars,
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however they could do with painting better, I'm intending to get a triple gauge
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( 52mm
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) centre panel, along with gauges.
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So will wait until then to do so.
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But here it is.
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![Image](https://i.imgur.com/KGbNe4H.jpg)
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