So it's been a while,
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but with the sunny weather, I have decided to re-focus on getting this finished.
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As a holistic refresher, here is where I'm at
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(pic heavy, sorry for any duplication).
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Having decided to try and enter the TSS, I needed a roll cage due to my car spec so, I set about stripping the interior ready for the bolt in cage.
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This began with the bare minimum needed to fit the cage, but soon snowballed:
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So having ripped out pretty much everything except for the ignition loom, it was off to Ashley's house to fit the Rogue cage.
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I haven't got any pictures of this, but you can see on the next pics that there is now a cage.
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Then I decided I'd hit a wall.
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I'd stripped out the last of the wiring and, having had the cage fitted, needed to think about putting things back together.
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Always the harder part.
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Anyway, not wanting to do things by halves, I decided to
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bring the MR2
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'into the 21st century'.
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The Syvecs provides a CANBus output, and I wanted to use that.
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Orignially I was just going to feed the data into the data logger, but then I got researching and bought these:
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![Image](http://www.teammedway.uk/MR2/Photos/Interior/0009.jpg)
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An Arduino and a bench supply
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(I now have about 6 Arduinos and 3 bench supplies.
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.
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.
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.False first steps.
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.
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.
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).
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I laid out all of the electronics I wanted to integrate into the car, and wrote my first sketch.
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It was a 10 button switch that used a resistor ladder to differentiate between which buttons had been pressed.
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I coded it so that each button could be a toggle, flasher or timed event, and it worked pretty well.
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![Image](http://www.teammedway.uk/MR2/Photos/Interior/0010.jpg)
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The reason for the resistor ladder was that my F1 style steering wheel
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(more on that later) needed multiple buttons, and I only had the two horn wires to use.
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I also made a loom for the GoPro as that will be hard-wired into the car and controlled by the Arduino.
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Having spent some time on the electronics and working out what needed to be done, I decided to start fabricating my own aluminium dashboard.
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Time for some metal bashing
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(or folding).
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I was reasonably happy with my progress until I realised that the two parts weren't going to meet in the middle.
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Bit of bashing now.
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.
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That simply wasn't good enough.
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So, that lot came out, back to the metal shop, and this is Gen 2:
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I decided to use DZU fasteners to hold it down, which meant making some brackets:
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Then made the cowl for the instrumentation:
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Then the centre console part
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- at this point I decided to add a second cowl for what will be my data logger interface
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(AKA an ANdroid tablet).
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A lick of black truckbed liner paint
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(because it's matte and rugged):
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And finally, I made my instrument cluster:
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Now the instrument cluster is a set of three 4D Systems Arduino display modules and will, one day, be used to present all the aforementioned CANBus data to the driver.
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I also plan to add extra trick bits to this, but can't say what they are yet because I haven't got that far.
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I already have the CAN code written, but as the engine isn't wired up, I can't get any decent data to test with gauges yet, plus I have enough other stuff to get done first.
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Now, quickly back to the
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'F1 Style Wheel'; since starting all of this, I have decided that the two horn wires would not cut it, so I bought a Krontec snap-off boss with a 22-pin connector.
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I thought that was that, problem solved.
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I was wrong.
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Once I connected 22 wires, I pushed the loom through the boss and then realised that the whole loom actually needs to move as the wheel turns
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(I probably should've already known this.
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.
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.
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)
As my heart is now set on a steering wheel with lots of buttons
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(as I have permanently removed the stalk controls), and I also plan to fit a touch screen display into the wheel too, my next action is to create a bespoke 22-pin
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'clock-spring' connector.
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I have all the bits I need, and I hope to take some pics as I do it.
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Anyway, that's all from me for probably the next 6 months
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