Is it advisable for me to get one of these in the meantime?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-AEM-Digi ... SwzrBavOUd
S148 from Turbo Technics
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Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Nice, has a different actuator to mine, mine looks like a stock one. Mine is an older one though, must be at least 8 years old. Looks like the compressor side hasn't changed though. Apparently it's a Cosworth compressor of all things!
Definitely get a wideband if you're planning on running much above stock boost. I've set mine to ~15psi for now, not going any further til I get a wideband in there.
New AEM X-Series comes in at just under £150, looks like a good buy.
Definitely get a wideband if you're planning on running much above stock boost. I've set mine to ~15psi for now, not going any further til I get a wideband in there.
New AEM X-Series comes in at just under £150, looks like a good buy.
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Gazza_DJ wrote: Definitely get a wideband if you're planning on running much above stock boost. I've set mine to ~15psi for now, not going any further til I get a wideband in there.
So I never need to actually adjust the actuator/it isn't adjustable? If I didn't have an EBC then I'd be sat at 0.8 bar all day with no issues.
Is the turbo pressure reference port visible in the photos I put up? lol
I can see that there's a brass T-piece between the cold side and actuator - is that where my boost controller would splice into? Or does a separate vac line run to that and then the EBC would be plumbed in to that separate vac line?
Sorry, I'm totally clueless.
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Just discovered that wastegate and actuator are the same thing. That helps a bit haha
I've also been running with the BOV blanked off for the last year or so - I should be ok to continue doing this with the S148 right as it has a steel shaft? I know it's a massive topic of debate regarding running BOVless but I've certainly preferred the characteristics of the car (and sound) since doing so!
I've also been running with the BOV blanked off for the last year or so - I should be ok to continue doing this with the S148 right as it has a steel shaft? I know it's a massive topic of debate regarding running BOVless but I've certainly preferred the characteristics of the car (and sound) since doing so!
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
I would think that the actuator has been adjusted already, they are set and forget really.
Turbo pressure reference is the barb that's coming off the compressor housing.
For boost controller pipe routing, refer to your instructions and look at the diagram. I think you use the T piece for an MBC. For my Greddy Profec OLED, the solenoid sits inline, so is basically where the T piece currently is.
BOV thing is a whole can of worms, best ask TT.
Turbo pressure reference is the barb that's coming off the compressor housing.
For boost controller pipe routing, refer to your instructions and look at the diagram. I think you use the T piece for an MBC. For my Greddy Profec OLED, the solenoid sits inline, so is basically where the T piece currently is.
BOV thing is a whole can of worms, best ask TT.
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Wideband ? You aren't going to run out of fuel with a CT series turbo.
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Al-sw20 wrote:Wideband ? You aren't going to run out of fuel with a CT series turbo.
Better safe than to just assume everything is working 100% as it should.
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Assuming that a conservative 17psi should be *safe* - what warning signs (if any) would you see if you were to start upping the boost beyond what the stock engine and fuelling can support? Or would something just pop and you'd lose a tonne or power then call the AA
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
it is a good idea to keep an eye on AFRs with a gauge.
gen3 ecu runs very lean in the midrange on high boost, and i would guess this is why many cars end up cracking piston rings.
i ran water/meth for a long time, now dont, but i also upped fuel pressure to help this mid range area.
i now also run a td06 on a oem fueling and a blitz ecu, touch wood still no issues, though i do have nearly every gauge monitoring these things known to man.
a lean condition, can feel like car is pulling back then pulls again as afrs drop to sensible levels, ive experienced it on the 20b when i was running less fuel pressure.
gen3 ecu runs very lean in the midrange on high boost, and i would guess this is why many cars end up cracking piston rings.
i ran water/meth for a long time, now dont, but i also upped fuel pressure to help this mid range area.
i now also run a td06 on a oem fueling and a blitz ecu, touch wood still no issues, though i do have nearly every gauge monitoring these things known to man.
a lean condition, can feel like car is pulling back then pulls again as afrs drop to sensible levels, ive experienced it on the 20b when i was running less fuel pressure.
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Having fun trying to figure out what vac line goes where..
The Dual SBC 'box' has two ports on the top - IN and OUT.
Do I remove the vac line which Turbo Technics have fitted (with a T-piece) between turbo and actuator, and then plumb the Blitz onto these instead? IE. IN goes to the turbo and OUT goes to the actuator?
The Dual SBC 'box' has two ports on the top - IN and OUT.
Do I remove the vac line which Turbo Technics have fitted (with a T-piece) between turbo and actuator, and then plumb the Blitz onto these instead? IE. IN goes to the turbo and OUT goes to the actuator?
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Correct - IN should connect to the port on the turbo. OUT should connect to the actuator, if I'm reading the Blitz diagrams/instructions correctly.
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Thanks mate
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
So just done the first drive, can't get it over actuator pressure (0.8 bar) for some reason. Went all the way up to 80% on the EBC but it didn't seem to affect a thing.
Also getting a lot of smoke, especially on overrun. Which is worrying me as I'd have thought any residual oil would've burned off during a 20 mile motorway cruise (I was trying to do 3rd/4th pulls).
Could the ebc vacs be on the wrong way around?
Also getting a lot of smoke, especially on overrun. Which is worrying me as I'd have thought any residual oil would've burned off during a 20 mile motorway cruise (I was trying to do 3rd/4th pulls).
Could the ebc vacs be on the wrong way around?
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Got it boosting right now - didn't seem to like having the BOV blanked off as it was before
Still smokey though.. think it's probably over fueling rather than burning oil though! Do I need to get it mapped or something?
Edit: HOLY SH*T IT'S QUICK NOW (currently at about 1.15 bar) quite a bit laggier than ct20 but it comes on reaaaaally strong at about 4k. Massive difference. Should really get the smoke sorted though before driving it too much
Still smokey though.. think it's probably over fueling rather than burning oil though! Do I need to get it mapped or something?
Edit: HOLY SH*T IT'S QUICK NOW (currently at about 1.15 bar) quite a bit laggier than ct20 but it comes on reaaaaally strong at about 4k. Massive difference. Should really get the smoke sorted though before driving it too much
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
If it had dumped a load of oil into the inlet and exhaust, it may take a while to burn it / push it through, especially if it pushed a load out inlet side and your IC is full of oil.
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Right, still smokey and definitely lost some oil (about halfway down the dipstick now after a few hundred miles).
My feeling is that it's (hopefully) the valve stem seals due to it generally smoking when sat idling or in traffic for a while or on overrun (downhill especially). How bad is it to replace these?
Also is it possible to run BOV-less on an S148? Because I plumbed everything how I had it on the CT20B ie. bolt in the end of the vac going to the BOV, which used to work nicely - and when I initially did this on the new turbo it was restricted to 0.8bar and the EBC wouldn't let it go any higher. Am I missing something obvious?
My feeling is that it's (hopefully) the valve stem seals due to it generally smoking when sat idling or in traffic for a while or on overrun (downhill especially). How bad is it to replace these?
Also is it possible to run BOV-less on an S148? Because I plumbed everything how I had it on the CT20B ie. bolt in the end of the vac going to the BOV, which used to work nicely - and when I initially did this on the new turbo it was restricted to 0.8bar and the EBC wouldn't let it go any higher. Am I missing something obvious?
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Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
Hate to say it but when the seals blew on my CT20 and TD05 it caused my car to smoke on hot idle. Basically any time the oil pressure was low enough it would let a bunch of oil through the seals causing a smokeshow.
On boost and under load the car was fine though.
On boost and under load the car was fine though.
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
yep, same happened to an old ct20b of mine.
smoke, and blue smoke at that at idle.
bad turbo seals.
you very rarely hear of valve stem seals going on these, infact i cant remember the last time i read about it.
smoke, and blue smoke at that at idle.
bad turbo seals.
you very rarely hear of valve stem seals going on these, infact i cant remember the last time i read about it.
Re: S148 from Turbo Technics
It smoked since the turbo was fitted though, literally since first start up.. so I'd really hope it's not the new turbo!
I'm gonna get compression checked and leak down test because this is making me very nervous I did ask the mechanic to check engine health and make sure the oil feed/return were clean before putting the new turbo anywhere near the car for this very reason but he knew better!
I'm gonna get compression checked and leak down test because this is making me very nervous I did ask the mechanic to check engine health and make sure the oil feed/return were clean before putting the new turbo anywhere near the car for this very reason but he knew better!