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Couple questions re top mount change and brake change

 
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drunknmunky




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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 4:01 am    Post subject: Couple questions re top mount change and brake change Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Am tackling the top mounts today as soon as I wake up ( work nights [Sad] ) and have read all the guides, very useful to all who took the time thankyou. Question is, do you finally torque up the top 4 nuts and strut top nut once the car is back on the ground with weight on it, or does it not matter?? And how do we stop the piston rod from spinning or does the top cup do the job for us when the car is down?
And question regarding brake change, I've read the how to by woodsport, (and thank God I did or I'd have just wound them in and not known about the whole handbrake issue) and just wondering do I need to open rear bleed nipple, as he says the front does need to be, to avoid seal flip? Hoping not as it's rusted to hell on one side [Sad]
Sorry if they sound like noob questions, just want to get it right first time.
Thanks in advance people.
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pbmr2
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

bleed nipples you'll prob be ok with while winding them back in if you're not forcing them in fast. but the a bleed at the end is always a good idea so you need to think about the nipples.

Get some plusgas or other release spray on them and let them soak for a while, get a wire brush in there to clean it up. use a 6 sided spanner and lighty shock them open. a constant torque could just snap them or round them. I just use the palm of my hand and thump the end of the spanner with that. using a hammer is probably too much force.

should be able to fully fit the top nuts for the shocks off the car. I use an old bike inner tube wrapped a couple of turns around the shaft and then grips on that. Also always grip the very top of the shaft where the bumpstop would be covering. This means all the tools are close to your hands which makes it much easier. sometimes spring design doesn't allow this so the gap is a bit more. big torque wrench helps too.
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drunknmunky




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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Thanks buddy, gonna go have a stab now, long as the rain holds off at least anyways
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drunknmunky




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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

Ok, so the bit I'm struggling with is how to get the hub and shock to realign so as to get the carrier bolts in. The hub doesn't seem to want to go low enough, any hints and tips welcome please
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pbmr2
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote Reply with quote including images

out a big bar under the subframe and over the suspension arm, sit on it and this lowers the arm and helps line it up. Prob the hardest part of the whole suspension job.
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