Blue smoke on a cold start. Forged pistons

[ashley]

Standard compression ratio on a rev 3 is 8.5:1 from memory isn't it? Stock boost is just under 1 bar isn't it?

Are you running the stock ECU and using pump fuel?

[GreddyMR2]

Mine is rev1. And if I remember correctly, stock cr is 8.8.
Yes, I am planning to be on a safe side and boost to 1bar.
I fitted walbro fuel pump, but still on stock ecu.

[ashley]

OK- so you've only upped you compression ratio slightly from 8.8 to 9:1

But you're going to run more boost than stock- so have you done anything to improve inter-cooling?

[GreddyMR2]

I have ARC intercooler.
Like this one
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k217/ ... G_0555.jpg

[bobhatton]

I think the Rev 1 and 2 ran 8psi boost on 8.8:1 C/R then when the Rev3 went up to 12 psi boost the C/R went down to 8.5:1

So if you want to run at 15psi the ECU will be controlling on the knock sensor most of the time and you will have lower power.

I would use some octane booster, the NOS one is the best.

[MR2 Rich]

I think the Rev 1 and 2 ran 8psi boost on 8.8:1 C/R then when the Rev3 went up to 12 psi boost the C/R went down to 8.5:1

So if you want to run at 15psi the ECU will be controlling on the knock sensor most of the time and you will have lower power.

I would use some octane booster, the NOS one is the best.

Even with 99 octane fuel?

Maybe watch this before you make an informed decision on "octane boosters"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKxJfXfD6mg

[GreddyMR2]

I think meth injection should also help, right?

[ashley]

Just drop the boost you run, and use race fuel when you want to run more

(or buy some 8.5:1 pistons )

[GreddyMR2]

To buy another pistons is way far out of my budget now

Don't want to lower a boost as I'm get used to 1bar already, so probably going 0,8bar will feel very slow... F**in wisecos...

I think it's too messy to run two different kind of fuels.

[ashley]

Water/ Meth injection then

[GreddyMR2]

OK, finally car is running again.
I still have no smoke at all, but I only drove about 100km. I hope it will be fine now.

But another thing, the car now idles like with aftermarket cams. And vacuum is staying at around -35 when it was around -50 before. However, when I drive, it runs perfectly, sound is strange only on idle. I check vacuum hoses, all looks good. Idle valve connected, no error codes, everything looks fine. What more should I check?

Here is the video:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/g0sltgdbl6807iu/VIDEO0040.mp4

[bobhatton]

OK, finally car is running again.
I still have no smoke at all, but I only drove about 100km. I hope it will be fine now.

But another thing, the car now idles like with aftermarket cams. And vacuum is staying at around -35 when it was around -50 before. However, when I drive, it runs perfectly, sound is strange only on idle. I check vacuum hoses, all looks good. Idle valve connected, no error codes, everything looks fine. What more should I check?

Here is the video:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/g0sltgdbl6807iu/VIDEO0040.mp4

Sounds like the cam timimg may be out, re check it again

[GreddyMR2]

OK, finally car is running again.
I still have no smoke at all, but I only drove about 100km. I hope it will be fine now.

But another thing, the car now idles like with aftermarket cams. And vacuum is staying at around -35 when it was around -50 before. However, when I drive, it runs perfectly, sound is strange only on idle. I check vacuum hoses, all looks good. Idle valve connected, no error codes, everything looks fine. What more should I check?

Here is the video:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/g0sltgdbl6807iu/VIDEO0040.mp4

Sounds like the cam timimg may be out, re check it again

God damn it... You mean timing belt, right? But if it's working well when I drive, is it a problem?
I have N/A cams and cam gear on exhaust side retarded by 5 deg.

[bobhatton]

OK, finally car is running again.
I still have no smoke at all, but I only drove about 100km. I hope it will be fine now.

But another thing, the car now idles like with aftermarket cams. And vacuum is staying at around -35 when it was around -50 before. However, when I drive, it runs perfectly, sound is strange only on idle. I check vacuum hoses, all looks good. Idle valve connected, no error codes, everything looks fine. What more should I check?

Here is the video:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/g0sltgdbl6807iu/VIDEO0040.mp4

Sounds like the cam timimg may be out, re check it again

God damn it... You mean timing belt, right? But if it's working well when I drive, is it a problem?
I have N/A cams and cam gear on exhaust side retarded by 5
deg.

I would set the cams up as stock to run the engine in and see how it goes. Then if you must change the cam timing do it a small amount at a time.

[GreddyMR2]

Long time from the last post here, but the topic is right.

From the last time I posted here car is running very well and strong and it's far from death as somebody wrote. But still one thing is annoying me.
And it will probably be due to larger piston to cylinder gap which I wrote here (current gap is 0.09mm when recommended gap for wisecos is 0.07mm).
The thing is that I get some blue smoke once the engine is started after a while and makes smoking when driving untill it's warmed up. Once the engine is at operating temp, there is no any sign of smoke. And yes, it uses a bit of oil which is the most annoying thing.
So am I right thinking that 0.09mm gap cause burning oil while the engine is cold? Maybe it is common with all forged pistons to consume a bit of oil?

[Odin_S]

How much oil over 1000km?

[GreddyMR2]

It's a bit hard to say as my speedo isn't working, but about 1l.

[SonicSW20]

My friends smells like an oil refinery when you drive behind it

[androo007]

Thats about the same as a BMW then

Sounds a bit much tbh. I dont use a drop

[GreddyMR2]

Thats about the same as a BMW then

Sounds a bit much tbh. I dont use a drop

Do you run with forged pistons?