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Manifolds are now all off, engine loom is off, injector rail is out etc. Finally got the damn crank pulley bolt off too (thanks Stu!)
Current plan is black everything with red vac lines, leads etc.- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKbst2uh0oc One month till the Cotswolds run
craig wrote:Nice!
It's 'Ignition Red' from Halfords, which apparently is RAL3001. 
Needed removing anyway as whoever put this thing together before using waaaaaay too much RTV. Annoyingly they used sealant on every other xxxxxx gasket on the engine, none of which actually need additional sealant. The amount of sealant used on the oil pump was ridiculous, there was sealant *in* some of the oil ways. :rolleyes: 
1 of them looked like this:
Underneath that was a snapped bolt. Feeling a bit annoyed with it after today, what should be relatively simple / easy jobs are becoming much longer than they need to be because of shortcuts / mistakes / ineptitude of whoever has been here before. Well, I know who's been here before as the paperwork for the engine shows a rebuild in 2007/2008. Highly unlikely anyone else has been there since then. Good work 
Hope it looks a bit better than that!!! Good luck Sir!JD wrote:Oh man, well once it's done, you know it's done right, and that's peace of mind.
That RAL3001 looks leng
Going to do the TB and bracket / spacer silver.johnsonca9 wrote:Hmmm, got the sump to change on mine.
"Another day and more annoying things to fix... Hydraulic tensioner threads are pretty much gone. I knew they weren't great as the bolts were pretty ropey when they came out and had bits of thread on them. Ran a tap down it and I could cleanly run a bolt through it so I was hopeful. Knowing that the threads weren't the best I started off with just 10NM on the torque wrench. Didn't even get to 10 and what remained of the threads gave out. Noticing a recurring theme with threads on this engine :rolleyes: Long!"
(did the bottom too as it was pretty shitty as well):
Hopefully it didn't have about 3 tubes of RTV on it previously because that's the only way it would seal :laughing Spotted oil leak after buying it and part of this was previous owner using a gasket on oil pan and over tightening to get it sealed which bent the end of the oil sump pan. Ended up buying a 2nd hand oil pan and resealing. Good luck with yours​.Gazza_DJ wrote:Let's hope not!
I bought a 2nd hand sump in good condition but a PITA. Hope you have less issues.
Are you dropping it in soon?JD wrote:Strong work, Gaz.
- Fit new ancillary hoses (no idea where most of these go 
) Torque timing side properly (cam gears, oil pump pulley) either when the flywheel is on or buy a cam gear locking tool and do it. Source another ABS rear hub (need to check which side) and source a spare ABS driveshaft. Rebuild the hubs using the turbo stubs and ABS hub carriers to retain the stock ABS. Carefully remove ABS trigger ring and install onto the turbo LSD driveshafts. Gearbox - clean and replace seals. Get the flywheel machined./ rebuilding hubs on the day. Then it's just a matter of plumbing the water, repinning the ECU to match up with the UK Rev5 stuff. Doable in a weekend but I'm allowing longer. My target is to have all the mechanical stuff sorted, new fuel pump installed in one weekend, just leaving plumbing / fluids / electrics. Plus troubleshooting time after.(As long as they are metal lol)