I think I have a problem

[craig]

All old cars of any make/model will rust eventually. What you do about it depends on what the car is worth to you and how long you want to keep it.

I would guess that most car drivers don't even consider a respray or it costs so much they choose to get a new car or newer car

I have found this out so many times especially with mr2s as young guys buy these cars as cheap thrills but when they realise these cars need time money and tlc then poor old mr2 ends up in scrap. my mr2 is for keeps so I don't mind spending more than I would ever get back so having a good solid shell is worth it to me.

Are there are other rust hotspots I should be checking. I've checked the sills t bar and the corners of the boot is there anyware else I'm missing

Agreed. I have spent more restoring my MR2 from a bar shell than I would ever get back. Here is my build thread:

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=173618

Seeing as my car was a bare shell build, the rust ares were easily identifiable.

These were:

- inner sills
- Boot corners behind rear wheel arch
- T bar edges (Top corner of A-pillar)
- Underneath the T bar plastic trim that the glass panels slot under
- Behind the rear bumper in the corners

All documented on my build thread.

Front wings and rear arches don't generally rust. This is usually a sign of badly repaired damage in the past.

Hope that helps mate.

[CalMac]

Also heard of the floorpan rusting, around the seat mounting holes so probably worth pulling the carpet to check there too

I've restored an MR2 as well, and yes it's a shame that people are scrapping these cars with minimal rust but when there are so many available at next to nothing (ie. £200) then it's a no-brainer really.

On the other hand I've spent a LOT of money on one of my MR2's (which I paid £350 for) and know it'll be a special car when I finally muster the motivation to finish it so I know where you're coming from

[rev3gtturbo]

I would add boot floor to the list from RedMR2.
Once had an mot failure for that on another mr2.

As a separate issue I have seen a few mr2s where the aerial water drain tube was either missing or not pushed through the hole in the boot floor. So any water that goes through the aerial goes into the boot and has nowhere to get out.

Some rust areas can be prevented by keeping water out by looking after the rubber seals around bonnet/boot/doors/door pillars/windows/tbar.

If the car has full aircon/climate control then use it regularly with the temperature slide on a warm setting to dehumidify the interior.

Getting in/out of the doors in the rain obviously lets rain into the car onto seats and carpet that probably ends up in the floor pan. Use the aircon to dry it out. Maybe have another layer of rubber backed carpet on top of the oem carpets will help stop it getting to the floor pan.

[super]

Where are these foam thngs located?
I should check mine.

Cheers,

John

[craig]

Where are these foam thngs located?
I should check mine.

Cheers,

John

Behind Rear speaker trims near seat belts. Chances are they will be sat in rear inner will cavity.

[super]

Cheers

That's this afternoons fiddle then...

[Angpozzuto]

Where are these foam thngs located?
I should check mine.

Cheers,

John

Behind Rear speaker trims near seat belts. Chances are they will be sat in rear inner will cavity.

I found them quite fiddly to get to I Had to unbolt the seatbelt reel and I could just about get my hand in

[cosmos]

I removed my sponges years ago and have often thought why Toyota installed them there in the first place, perhaps sound insulation, they obviously get damp and just sit there !! but surely condensation still occurs regardless of the sponges and slides south to the sill top then what? the hope is any residues evaporate quicker than the sponge held moisture.
Surely Toyota are only concerned for their warranty period.
Check your sills are unblocked with a lollipop stick along the jacking flange 3 or 4 slots per side. On the underside of the outer sills there are 3/4 per side rubber bungs that unscrew out I'm still unsure of their purpose. Enclosed sections like sills need to breath and allow natural evaporation without water ingress……age old problem. Get the scuff plates off and atomise with waxoyl etc. Any more thoughts people!