What to Look for When Buying an SW20

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JeffD
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What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by JeffD »

Found this on usedcarexpert website and thught it may be worth making a sticky here.....?

1990 All new MR2 MkII launched.

1992 Revised range: new frontal styling, 15" alloy wheels, uprated suspension and brakes. GT and GT T-Bar models now have 154 bhp engine, 'cat' and variable-rate PAS.

1994 Revised models launched in UK with uprated 173bhp high compression engine, side impact protection beams, improved suspension, ABS, restyled rear spoiler and rear lamp clusters.

1996 Revisions: 168 bhp low-emission engine, heated mirrors, green tinted glass in place of blue, driver's airbag.

Bodywork There are no reported faults on the bodywork. Complete standard checks for rust and accident damage.

Cam belt Check the paperwork to see if the cam belt has been changed on schedule. On most engines the cam belt must be changed within 5 years or 60,000 miles. If the cam belt and associated parts (such as the tensioner) have not been changed, and the mileage is over these boundaries, the cam belt is likely to fail soon. Usually the engine has to be replaced or at least re-built after a cam belt failure. Ensure that the cam belt is changed before the car is driven anywhere if it is coming close to its interval. Changing the belt will cost £260.

Heater pipes Under the bonnet, look for a reservoir of water connected to the radiator at the front of the engine. If the engine is cold, open the top and check that the level is between the minimum and maximum markers. If the engine is hot, do NOT open the top as you will burn yourself. Instead push down on the car wing to make the car bounce. Look at the water as it moves in the reservoir to check its level. Do not look at the side of the reservoir and think that the dirty mark left by old water is the current level, use the checks to the left. If the water is below the minimum the car is likely to have a leak, often caused by two heater pipes (which run front to back but cannot be seen). These pipes last approximately 40,000 miles. Have the car examined by an expert. If the leak is caused by the two heater pipes, budget £350.

Anti-freeze Ask to see the paperwork, which shows that the anti-freeze has been changed every 2 years. Check the colour of the water; you should be able to see red, green or blue fluid in the reservoir (as described in the heater pipe test). It should not be brown. Brown water, or plain water means the antifreeze has not been replaced. This will lead to internal corrosion of the engine and heater pipes. Complete the heater pipe test.

Gearbox Check that the car goes into gear easily. During the test drive, check that the car changes down from 3rd gear to 2nd and 2nd to first. This is most likely on pre-1993 cars, as an improved gearbox was fitted thereafter. If the gears are difficult to engage, the problem is usually that the syncromesh is failing. Specialists recommend having a REV3 box fitted. Negotiate a discount or have the repair completed. Budget £400 for a 2nd hand REV3 box or £700 for a re-build.

Clutch Test-drive the car and see if it accelerates smoothly or delays when you press the accelerator and then surges forward (this is a slipping clutch). Also notice if the clutch bites high (the point at which the car moves).

Front shock absorbers As you drive the car over rough surfaces or bumps (e.g. speed bumps) listen for a knocking noise coming from the front suspension. Also notice if the car seems light and skippy at the front rather than stable and solid. A knocking noise from the front suspension, combined with skippy handling usually means front shock absorbers need replacing. Negotiate a £175 discount per side or the repair completed.

Rear wheel bearings During the test drive, listen for a droning/rumbling noise from the wheels. The droning/rumbling noise indicates that a wheel bearing needs replacing. Negotiate a £100 discount or have the repair completed.

Rear anti-roll bar drop links As you drive the car over rough surfaces or bumps (e.g. speed bumps) listen for a knocking noise coming from the rear suspension. This noise is more likely on a car that has completed over 60,000 miles. A knocking noise from the suspension usually indicates that a rear anti-roll bar drop link needs replacing. Negotiate a £110 discount per side or the repair completed.

Rear brake discs Look through the middle of the rear wheels to the brake discs. They should have uniform wear all the way round. They should not be pitted. If the brake disc is pitted, it needs replacing. Negotiate a £75 - £120 discount per side or the repair completed.

Recalls There are no officially reported recalls for the MR2.
matt_mr2t
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Location: Essex

Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by matt_mr2t »

The engine is a non interference unit meaning that if the cambelt was to break, in theory no damage should occur.
JeffD
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by JeffD »

The engine is a non interference unit meaning that if the cambelt was to break, in theory no damage should occur.
I thought that too - I was thinking we could use thjat list as a starting point and then edit it based on all our experiences to get a handy check list....
matt_mr2t
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by matt_mr2t »

Oh yeah it's definately handy to have. A lot of people shopping for an MR2 ask that first which means there's loads of similar posts floating around pointlessly.
Perhaps the mods could make this a sticky?
JeffD
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Location: North West

Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by JeffD »

What if folks make suggestions and I'll/someone edits it so we get a good list of stuff to look for. Commmon faults I can think of off the top of my head are:

Cracked door pull bezzles
Window Tweeter noise
Front drop links (as opposed to rear)
Leaking T-Bars/damp in floor
Hesitant acceleration on turbos
Oil on plug no 2/leaking rocker cover gasket
stuck boot lock
broken engine lid support stay bracket
seized calipers on front
missing/dmaged undertrays
poser
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by poser »

Just my 2p - the electric aerial breaks if you look at it a bit funny.

Also, might it be worth adding details of the paperclip trick, too, so people could do a fault check before they buy? (I wish I'd known about that before I bought mine...)
JeffD
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Location: North West

Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by JeffD »

Aerial is a goood one but TBH not sure how many people are going to let you short a couple of terminals on their car! LOL

I wouldnt....
poser
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Location: Newcastle

Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by poser »

:) Fair point, now I think about it. ](*,)
Tiny
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by Tiny »

not hard to print out the pages from the Manual showing them your not about to short out the electrics on their car.

Hell last car i looked at for someone i had all the intake off to check play in the turbo. owner wasnt too happy but if he had said no then i would have walked away.
xanthus400
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by xanthus400 »

the struts/strenghtening supports in the engine bay under the engine prone to being extinct thru rust :thumleft:
JeffD
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by JeffD »

Paint fade on red cars is another one
hermit
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by hermit »

Rust to the sills, below the door rear shut lines. Not sure, but think this problem stems from moonroof/T bar drainage.

Rust to the rear wheel arches. Rust to the rear wheel arch box sections under the boot carpet.

Thought the rev1 had same engine as rev2, but MORE power (158) because of lack of cat. converter?

hermit
DAN_REV1_TURBO
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by DAN_REV1_TURBO »

Wobbly windows, pop up lights sticking, dodgy bonnet catch,packed up speedo..
platmatt8
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by platmatt8 »

Probably up there with shorting out electrics with paper clips, but Turbo shaft play. a Posi screw driver and 5 mins will save you hundreds.

Image
dansREV2turbo
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by dansREV2turbo »

:lol: ^ i did that when i viewed mine, thankfully the garage left me to get on, even I thought half way through 'i hope they dont see how much ive taken out!' :whistle:

another point is mayo in the oil filler cap.
if its been doing a lot of short journeys condensation may have just built up under the cap.
if its still there after a nice long test drive then walk away..
Spitelli
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by Spitelli »

Reading about these issues... Remind me again why we buy these cars? :lol:

If I wasn't already in love with mine and I was looking for one, this buyers guide would probably put me off. 8-[
DaveofEdinburgh
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by DaveofEdinburgh »

Does the Rev 5 Beams-engined model also have a non-interference type setup like this?
RST
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by RST »

^^^No, the gen 4 3SGE isn't a non-interference engine. Heven't heard of a cam belt gone yet on the forums so far -they're a very robust engine though still need caring for as per any other.
Hedgehog Dodger
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Re: What to Look for When Buying an SW20

Post by Hedgehog Dodger »

I Like have turds on the toilet
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