Best clutch for racing

Discussion and technical advice for 84-89 AW10 & AW11 MR2. 3A-LU, 4A-GE, 4A-GZE.

Moderators: IMOC Moderators, IMOC Committee Members

Post Reply
El colonel
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:55 am

Best clutch for racing

Post by El colonel »

I race a 1989 mk1b used for racing and I ride the clutch at the start for an average of 5 secs.
I have used Blue Print but they fall apart after 20 to 25 race starts so I'm looking for a clutch that will last longer. Any suggestions except don't ride the clutch cos it gains me places at the start.
Thanks
Last edited by El colonel on Tue Sep 26, 2017 10:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
PW@Woodsport
Posts: 7642
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 6:40 pm
Location: durham
Contact:

Re: Best clutch for racing

Post by PW@Woodsport »

An 89 Mk2 you say.... this is the Mk1 section, I don't think an 89 Mk2 even exists! :D

To help you further can you clarify exactly what car you have?
Image
SonicSW20
Posts: 3681
Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 7:54 pm

Re: Best clutch for racing

Post by SonicSW20 »

Dec 1989 SW20's do exist Paul!
El colonel
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:55 am

Clutch for racing

Post by El colonel »

Sorry guys its a typo I race a Mk1b
Looking forward to your advise :oops:
kaiowas
Posts: 1953
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:06 pm
Location: Norfolk
Contact:

Re: Best clutch for racing

Post by kaiowas »

I've been sprinting my mk1 for years, mostly with a 4A-GZE (n/a clutch and gearbox type though so still relevant to you)

I fitted a brand new blueprint clutch in 2008 and it still had life in it when I replaced it after 7 years, 50 or so events and well over 500 sprint starts.

I turbo charged my engine at the start of the 2016 season (Currently putting out 260 odd HP) and at the same time fitted an Exedy Stage 2 Cerametallic paddle clutch have since done another 10+ sprint events (with at least 6-8 starts per event) with no clutch issues.
PW@Woodsport
Posts: 7642
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 6:40 pm
Location: durham
Contact:

Re: Best clutch for racing

Post by PW@Woodsport »

Gazza_DJ wrote:Dec 1989 SW20's do exist Paul!


Well I've learnt something there, always thought they began in 90.
Image
SonicSW20
Posts: 3681
Joined: Mon Nov 29, 2010 7:54 pm

Re: Best clutch for racing

Post by SonicSW20 »

PW@Woodsport wrote:
Gazza_DJ wrote:Dec 1989 SW20's do exist Paul!


Well I've learnt something there, always thought they began in 90.


They might as well do really, December 1989 cars are very uncommon. I've seen just 1 in several years!
El colonel
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:55 am

Best clutch for racing

Post by El colonel »

Wot about my clutch guys cos thats twice its broken up with me on start line?
jimi
Posts: 2139
Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:27 am
Location: Kingdom of Fife
Contact:

Re: Best clutch for racing

Post by jimi »

Perhaps you need to rethink the way you start ?
Phil managed over 500 sprint starts out of a standard blueprint clutch with more power available than you have and still had life left in the clutch (he also suggests a possible uprated replacement)
kaiowas wrote:I've been sprinting my mk1 for years, mostly with a 4A-GZE (n/a clutch and gearbox type though so still relevant to you)

I fitted a brand new blueprint clutch in 2008 and it still had life in it when I replaced it after 7 years, 50 or so events and well over 500 sprint starts.

I turbo charged my engine at the start of the 2016 season (Currently putting out 260 odd HP) and at the same time fitted an Exedy Stage 2 Cerametallic paddle clutch have since done another 10+ sprint events (with at least 6-8 starts per event) with no clutch issues.
El colonel
Posts: 4
Joined: Mon Sep 25, 2017 11:55 am

Best clutch for racing

Post by El colonel »

I start races by, once the red lights go on, i pull on the flyoff handbrake lift revs to say 5k slowly engage the clutch til its straining against the handbrake and revs fall back to say 4k then up to a max of 10 secs later (average 5secs) when lights out I'm off the line like a shot.
So all I want is the toughest clutch available to withstand the wear at the start for more than 20 races. I presume you guys are not holding at 4k revs with the handbrake for up to 10 secs and lihts out, but that gives me a really advantageous start.
Racing next weekend and need a new clutch NOW.. :evil: [/b]
kaiowas
Posts: 1953
Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:06 pm
Location: Norfolk
Contact:

Re: Best clutch for racing

Post by kaiowas »

To be fair a race start is probably different to a sprint start.

I don't need to worry about reaction times (timing only starts when I break the timing beam) so I don't need to hold the bite point for very long before launching whereas in a race start I'd imagine it's normal to hold the bite point at high rpm for several seconds waiting for the lights to change.

Also having more power works in my favour slightly, when I was sprinting the car as an n/a I would launch it from 6000 RPM on a warm day and it'd just go, if I tried that with the s/c or turbo I'd get nothing but wheelspin so I'm launching from much lower rpm these days.
User avatar
Lauren
IMOC Committee
Posts: 38632
Joined: Mon Dec 13, 2004 5:37 pm
Location: Greater Manchester
Contact:

Re: Best clutch for racing

Post by Lauren »

What you are doing is burning the clutch out. I think given your launch style you just have to accept that you keep changing clutches frequently, or give it an easier time at the start. I would never hold the clutch slipping with the handbrake on.

When I used to race MK1s I always had trouble with wheelspin, but I don't slip the clutch. As it was a 20 minute race I had time even with a bad start (which happened most times) to make it up.
2020 GR Yaris - Circuit Pack :lover:
feral4mr2
Posts: 436
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2005 1:52 pm
Location: Western Australia
Contact:

Re: Best clutch for racing

Post by feral4mr2 »

I love using sprung center ceramic puk clutches with bigger clamp pressure plates.
If you use a reputable clutch builder they can change the fulcrum point of the fingers on the pressure plate and still have pedal feel of a stock oem clutch, saves building one leg bigger than the other like the old days of heavy duty clutches. haha

When they're new there's no slipping clutches with them, on or off. Plenty of stall practice.

They can be slipped a little ever so lightly as they're worn in, you'll here the chatter and know it's time to floor it and release the clutch at the same time. bang! engagement and go! haha
Post Reply

Return to “MR2 MK1 1984-1989 NA & SC”