You can get a retaining nut from Toyota that screws onto the thread and holds the spring down, it's about £2.
part number 09756-00010
I did it in the past on MGF calipers (equally as bad), and it was a good amount of messing getting the spring compressed and the circlip on! Toyota nut took 10 seconds after fitted.
Rear arches repair , the datsun method
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- Posts: 49
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Re: Rear arches repair , the datsun method
That cheap , I din't know that .
Din't even know it was available .
Lucky I didn't start machining the nut
Now that I have reluctantyly decided that an engine upgrade will not be done , I'm thinking of retrofitting an airco to my MK1 .
Can it be done without to much trouble .
Guess I'll have to drop the fuel tank , but I have a lot of experiance
doing that .
I've also worked on AC 's before , I have a vacuum pump and a set of gauges and stuiff like that .
Anyone have one for sale , or pictures that can show me what I'm up against .
Pat
Din't even know it was available .
Lucky I didn't start machining the nut
Now that I have reluctantyly decided that an engine upgrade will not be done , I'm thinking of retrofitting an airco to my MK1 .
Can it be done without to much trouble .
Guess I'll have to drop the fuel tank , but I have a lot of experiance
doing that .
I've also worked on AC 's before , I have a vacuum pump and a set of gauges and stuiff like that .
Anyone have one for sale , or pictures that can show me what I'm up against .
Pat
Re: Rear arches repair , the datsun method
I think there was an AC pump on ebay not long ago, it may still be there!
At least the 4AGE has the two belt pulley there for it.
At least the 4AGE has the two belt pulley there for it.
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- Posts: 49
- Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:02 am
Re: Rear arches repair , the datsun method
The hardest parts to find , iI think , will be the parts underneath the dash .
vaporisor , air duct's and all the plumbing .
And I need them for a left hand drive .
Pat
vaporisor , air duct's and all the plumbing .
And I need them for a left hand drive .
Pat
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- Posts: 49
- Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:02 am
Re: Rear arches repair , the datsun method
Couple of pictures of the car being towed to be resprayed .
No body filler has been applied yet . As you can see , even without any filler the rear arches look quite good .
The white stuff is an epoxy primer .
The mr2 is being towed with a triangle bolted to the front bumper mounting holes . It was fun watching the steering wheel move in my rearview mirror . It towed very well , better then I expected .
All other parts , lids , doors , bumpers , the list seems to be endless with an mr2 , are already resprayed . It's been a long time since I've handled a spraygun . The front hood has a small runner in it . Barely visible , but an imperfection none the less .
No body filler has been applied yet . As you can see , even without any filler the rear arches look quite good .
The white stuff is an epoxy primer .
The mr2 is being towed with a triangle bolted to the front bumper mounting holes . It was fun watching the steering wheel move in my rearview mirror . It towed very well , better then I expected .
All other parts , lids , doors , bumpers , the list seems to be endless with an mr2 , are already resprayed . It's been a long time since I've handled a spraygun . The front hood has a small runner in it . Barely visible , but an imperfection none the less .
Re: Rear arches repair , the datsun method
Nice work, 're the aircon, the loom is already wired to run aircon as standard.
Mk1b White T-bar SC 1987, Mk1b White coupe Jan90, Mk1b White coupe Jan90 (spares), Mk1b Mica blue T-bar Mar90, Mk1b Mica blue T-bar,full climate control,Jan90, 5 mk1's
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- Posts: 49
- Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:02 am
Re: Rear arches repair , the datsun method
oukie wrote:Nice work, 're the aircon, the loom is already wired to run aircon as standard.
Are you sure about that ?
I've had the car virtually stripped of everything , but didn't come across any not needed wiring .
Maybe it wasn't present on the earlier versions ?
Picture of the now painted rear arches .
Serviced the engine today , t-belt , oil , spark plugs ....
Yesterday I swapped the old C50 transaxle for a freshly build c52-c60 hybrid . Big thanks to paul woods for putting all the info on the net .
so It's mainly some details left .
Driveshafts , bleeding the brakes ... couple of day's and it should be running .
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Re: Rear arches repair , the datsun method
Oh and btw , I hit a small snag .
My car is a 1986 MK1 .
The front spoiler is rusted , I think beyond repair .
So I got me a 2 piece MK2 lower front , thinking it would simply bolt on .
Well that is not true .
The MK1b is quite different in that area.
The crossmember on wich the radiator rests is different , and welded to the body at a different angle .
So I have some adapting and fabricating to do to .
To bad , didn't count on that .
But as all the parts are already painted , there's no turning back .
I'll adapt and gett hem on somehow
Pat
My car is a 1986 MK1 .
The front spoiler is rusted , I think beyond repair .
So I got me a 2 piece MK2 lower front , thinking it would simply bolt on .
Well that is not true .
The MK1b is quite different in that area.
The crossmember on wich the radiator rests is different , and welded to the body at a different angle .
So I have some adapting and fabricating to do to .
To bad , didn't count on that .
But as all the parts are already painted , there's no turning back .
I'll adapt and gett hem on somehow
Pat
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- Posts: 49
- Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:02 am
Re: Rear arches repair , the datsun method
Here are a couple of pictures how I fixed the sagging doors .
Started by removing the old hinges with an angle grinder .
Didn't want to touch the part that is bolted to the body , as it still is nicely sealed .
The hinge pin in pressed and rivetted , si I just ground it away completely .
The moving part was bored and reamed to a bigger size .
Phosfor bronze bushings , interference fit pressed in and reamed to size .
Bushings have a larger contact area then the originals , so should last a little longer , I hope
The entire assembly was trimmed to the right length on the lathe .
And a new hinge pin completes the job .
In an ideal world , this pin would be heat treated and ground to size .
Don't have that equippement , so I used a good quality bolt as a blank , and polished the pin .
The result is a rock solid door that has no play whatsoever , and hopefully will last longer then the original .
4 hinges took almost a full day's work , but it's well worth the effort .
Started by removing the old hinges with an angle grinder .
Didn't want to touch the part that is bolted to the body , as it still is nicely sealed .
The hinge pin in pressed and rivetted , si I just ground it away completely .
The moving part was bored and reamed to a bigger size .
Phosfor bronze bushings , interference fit pressed in and reamed to size .
Bushings have a larger contact area then the originals , so should last a little longer , I hope
The entire assembly was trimmed to the right length on the lathe .
And a new hinge pin completes the job .
In an ideal world , this pin would be heat treated and ground to size .
Don't have that equippement , so I used a good quality bolt as a blank , and polished the pin .
The result is a rock solid door that has no play whatsoever , and hopefully will last longer then the original .
4 hinges took almost a full day's work , but it's well worth the effort .