Knowledge Base

Mk2 Normally Aspirated Buyers Guide

Toyota MR2 Mk2 Normally Aspirated Buyer's Guide
By Paul Walker

Mk2 There have been several revisions of the Mk2 MR2 since it's launch in 1990. Initially, there were three models available in the UK. These were the Coupe, which has 119bhp and no rear spoiler, the GT Coupe (158bhp) and the GT T-Bar which was also 158bhp, but had two removable roof panels.

All three of these models had 14" alloy wheels as standard, and power steering was an optional extra. In 1992 power steering became standard equipment, and the wheels were upgraded to flat-spoke 15" alloys. The 119bhp coupe was also dropped from the range at this time.

In 1994, the most noticeable revision took place, with the square rear lights and honeycombed centre section were replaced with round tail lights and a solid centre section with reversing lights close together. The spoiler was also changed from a three piece one to a single piece one. With this revision, the engine was replaced with one with 175bhp, ABS was added as standard and the suspension was upgraded to improve the cars handling round corners.

There was a limited edition (only 250) 10th Anniversary model in 1996 which can be identified by the wooden steering wheel, chrome kick-plates, different alloy wheels and the limited edition badge.

The final revision was in 1998 and saw the 15" wheels changed to round spokes, a big adjustable spoiler and clear front light cluster.

Comparison of the models available:

Model...........BHP...........Years available...............How to tell them apart
Coupe.........119bhp..........1990-1992.......................No rear spoiler, 14" wheels
GT Coupe....158bhp..........1990-1994.......................Rear spoiler, sunroof, 14" wheels, square rear light cluster
GT T-Bar......158bhp..........1990-1994......................Rear spoiler, removable roof panels, 14"wheels, square rear light cluster
GT Coupe.....175bhp..........1994-1998......................Rear spoiler, sunroof, 15" wheels, round rear light cluster
GT T-Bar.......175bhp.........1994-1998......................Rear spoiler, removable roof panels, 15" wheels, round rear light cluster
10th Aniv.......175bhp............1995...........................Wooden steering wheel, chrome kick plates, different wheels, 10th aniv badge
GT Coupe.......175bhp........1998-2000......................Round spoke 15" wheels, large adjustable rear spoiler, clear front light cluster

General
1. A full Toyota service history is essential. The pre-1994 cars should be serviced every 6000 miles or 6 months (whichever is sooner), with the post-1994 models only requiring a service either every 9000 miles or 12 months.

2. Most MR2's are their owners pride and joy. Look for one that has receipts crammed into the log book. This is a sign that the car has been well looked after.

3. Make sure all electronic toys work properly. Specifically, check that the windows and mirrors operate electrically, make sure the wipers and screen washer work as well as the heater and window demisters. Also, make sure that the electric aerial works as there is a little nylon gear inside that is prone to wearing. Make sure the central locking works as well, and that the headlights pop up when you turn them on.

4. Make sure the tyres have a lot of tread on them, and that they are evenly worn. If the car has Bridgestone SO-2's all round, you can be pretty sure that car is well looked after as they are the best tyres a Mk2 can wear.

5. If you are buying from a dealer, make sure you get them to replace brake pads and shocks rather than knock the price down a couple of hundred quid.

Bodywork

1. Check that all body panels are the same shade and look at the joins between panels. They shouldn't be too far apart, or too close, and should be even all over the car. Any panels that don't look right are signs of accident repairs. Also look for any aftermarket welding.

2. Open both doors and check for rust at the bottom by the hinges.

3. T-bar's do tend to leak, generally behind the driver or passenger. These can be fixed however with a little silicon lubricant.
Engine
1. The engine bay should look a bit scabby, but look for obvious oil leaks around the head gasket, and elsewhere on the engine block.

2. Open the oil filler cap. There shouldn't be any white coloured gundge it is a sign that water has got into the oil system, and could be a blown head gasket. Check the dipstick as well.

3. The cambelt should be changed every 60,000 miles. If this has been done by a Toyota dealer, there will be a sticker on the top of the cambelt cover with a date and mileage on it.

Cooling System

The problem with the Mk2 is that the radiator is totally unprotected from stones, and a holed radiator is not cheap to fix. Many owners protect their radiator with a plastic or metal mesh.

2. Toyota recommend that only a special "ForLife" coolant is used in MR2's. ForLife is a dark red colour. Check the coolant expansion tank in the front boot and make sure it is not pale red or clear, or any other colour other than dark red/orange.

3. The coolant system is complicated in an MR2 as the engine is in the middle and the radiator at the front. Because of this, it requires a specific filling method to prevent air-locks. Check for overheating on your test drive.

Test Drive

1. Take it easy to warm everything up. Check the heater and make sure it can blow out hot air.

2. Once warmed up, the temperature gauge should be on the half way point - no higher. If it is higher, this could indicate a problem with the cooling system.

3. Check that all body panels are the same shade and look at the joins between panels. They shouldn't be too far apart, or too close, and should be even all over the car.

4. Clunks and bumps from the front of the car over potholes probably mean worn bushes or tie-rods, which are very easy to replace.

5.Clunks and bumps from the rear of the car when changing direction or going round a roundabout could well indicate worn rear wheel bearings.

6. Check the brakes by again building up speed and then applying them sharply (consider other road users before doing this!). The car should not pull to either side. If there is judder as the brakes are applied then the front brake discs probably need replacing (this is a common problem on early Mk1s and was corrected in later models by the use of larger front discs). If there is judder even when the brakes are not being used then it is probably a simple matter of an out-of-balance wheel or two.

: Tue Apr 26, 2005 8:00 pm

((This was done for someone buying a G Reg)

Okay, here's my mini buying guide to a early MK2 MR2. I bought a G Reg (89/90) which was one of the first few 100 sold in the UK. It has had some problems. Here's what people should be aware off.

I am not a technical expert, however I am aware of what has gone wrong with my car, how much it cost to replace, where I spotted problems before I bought and where they might develop later. I've also put in some guide prices for basic repairs (excluding labour) and some general points about the early rev car.

General:

1) Rev 1 doesn't have the 'features': EG: Power Steering, ABS, Traction Control or anything like that. Maybe you want this, maybe you don't But if you've not driven one before, be careful not to fishtail on the first round-a-bout on the way home.

2) If you don't get a T-Bar version you don't get the rear and front strut braces or something like that. Makes it back wild. This is a good after-purchase mod. (Unless you got the 3S-FE HAHA - In which case you don't need it)

Engine:

1) Watch out for the 3S-FE engine instead of the 3S-GE. Much less HP (120 or something) vs a Rev 1 158 and the later Revs close to 190.

2) Check the Radiator on the front of the car. Some rust is normal, and the rubber 'spring's that hold it in are usually wasted. But if it's got dents or if it has dried on coolant marks. Steer clear.

3) Open the coolant cap (make sure Engine is off) and using a cloth, dip in. If coolant is clear, this is a good sign. If there are oily bubbles in it... BAD sign. IF you can't see any liquid, top it off until you can and repeat above steps. Coolant should be red. However my experience with viewing three was that they'd used other coolant than standard. Up to you on this, try to find the Redline stuff.

4) Engine Fan (Right side). After you've been for your drive (see later), park the car and leave the engine on. Check this fan comes on. If it doesn't, ask about it lots. These can fail, (although sometimes the engine is a b1tch in turning them on). Expensive replace.

5) Does it have the original air-box? It does? Good, you can mod it If it doesn't check the filter, see if it's been cleaned etc. If it looks soggy / natty, that is a good �30+ to replace.

6) Remove the carpet in the boot, check the ECU, should be on the left hand side. Make sure all the wires coming out of it look fine. No rust on the box, should be nice and shiney

Brakes & Suspension:

1) Calipers can be a nightmare, if it's been standing outside for a while, they often bind. This causes the pads to burn and if they're cheap discs they can fracture. It's expensive. Hard to check unless you take the wheels off and examine the play on the both the SLIDERS and the PISTONs on each side. If they're missing seals, uh-oh. Expensive replacement.

2) As you go for a drive, listen for knocks from weak / broken drop links.

3) If you can, get it on a MOT ramp, lift it and do the suspension juggle. In other words press the wheel up, if it makes a knocking sound you may have knackered suspension. It should be possible to push the wheel up into the arch without much noise and let it drop smoothly.

4) While you're at it, check the pads for wear. Ideally they should have the metal spring still on them to help with pad release. If not, they should have a good amount of wear left in them.

5) Test the Hand-Break! See if you can move the car (gently) with the hand-break engaged. Try gently using power. If the car moves, the hand-break cables may be screwed, or someone did their break replacements wrong.

Body:

1) Remove the spare wheel and check for rust under it. That's the drain pan in there, if it's quite rusty you can fail a MOT.

2) Check for rust under-neath, can't stress this enough.

3) Check the Oil-Sump specifically for rust. A new one isn't that expensive and you can get a oil change done at the same time, but still, might as well start with a good one. �50 - �70.

4) Place to also check for rust: Wind-screen wiper arms and assembly, bottom of the door edges. Around the T-Bar (take it out, and does it have original bags / shades?) Also look for Rust, wheel arches etc. Some rust is normal. GET THE t-cut out

Exhaust:

1) Peer into the Engine bay and check under the top heatshield. If it's an original downpipe / manifold etc then there will be some surface rust etc. But make sure you can't see any holes etc. Turn the Engine on, listen, go down low (watch out for fumes) and look around the exits and backbox for leaks (blowing). Try not to buy one with a really pranged backbox.

2) Check for mis-fires and smoke on start-up. Excessive white smoke could indicate a gasket problem, while other colour smoke can indicate problems from engine piston seal failure to oil burn. Stay away.

3) Rev the engine, check for smoke again. Check for 'stutter' on the Rev's especially as you go through 1 - 3.5k revs. If it's not happy picking up, then why bother. You want performance. Repeat this, vroom vroom.

Going for a drive:

1) Go for a range of a drive. Do some high speed, some low speed. Town stop / start and if possible motorway at 80-90mph (max speed you should take it ever) See if it feels lumpy, unresponsive etc. Check that the vibrations through the steering wheel aren't bad at higher speeds (this indicates a number of possibilities; alignment, balancing, braking problems).

1aa) Brake hard (but in a safe way) Check for pull to one side or the other.

1a) Specifically, before you start, open the door and use the clutch a couple of times. If you can hear a loud squeak from under the car, uh-oh Maybe new clutch, maybe just needs an oiling.

1b) While driving, check your Engine Revs. After a while they should sit pretty at 900 - 1100 when on idle and should NOT drop below 800. In other words, if it start's dipping when you apply the clutch and perhaps the car seems like it's about to stall... walk away. Too many problems can cause this, it's not worth it (although it can be as simple and cheap as the throttle assemble needing a clean).

1bb) Check that getting into all gears is easy enough. Try switching between Reverse and 1st a few times, these can be annoying gears.

1c) Check when you leave the car all the lights. Get a mate to do a walk-round. Front Fogs, Rear Fogs, brake and night lights. Check indicators and check internal lights in the car. (Red ones in the doors) White above the console etc. Check the pop-ups. If one is slower than the other, or if one has an issue being raised, you may be looking at a motor failure. Quite cheap to replace.

1f) Finally after all this (and after you've been for your drive in the car). Ask to move it. Check under the car for fluid leaks. (Nothing beats getting something to go wrong than a drive )

Asking questions:

1) Has it had a cam-belt change at OR BEFORE the manafacturer's recomended time?!

2) Oil changes, what do you use, when did you last do it, how often do you do it.

3) Where have you kept it overnight?

4) Is it HPI clear? Got the report? You going to make me pay to get a report on your car? (If they say yes to the last question, kick them in the head).

5) Ever used the spare tyre? Do you have the original Tool Kit?

Mods:

1) You can; Mod the Body easily.
2) You can; Mod the brakes, suspension and wheels easily.
3) You can't; Mod the Engine easily. Air-filter, sparks, exhaust, de-cat. That's about it without spending stupid money.

Typical costs:

Tax: 1 year; �195 (Max bracket)

Mods: Air-Filter (Decent) �60
Mods: Exhaust (Decent including down-pipe, decat) �350-500
Mods: Nice discs and pads: �80 per disc + pads.
Mods: Bodykits: get a good one that fits. Anywhere from �400 - over �1000

etc etc

Sure I've missed some stuff out, but as I said, these are things that I checked for, or things that later went wrong for me.

Edit: Please also check out:

http://www.imoc.co.uk/forums/kb.php?mode=article&k=48

For another look (with more info) on buying a NA.

: Sat Apr 30, 2005 9:04 pm

Couple of things I want to add to this really, people generally forget to check these - Me Included....

1. Check the electric aerial works going both up and down - these cost bout �160 in total from toyota.

2. When you go for a test drive make sure you take it up to 70mph and check for wheel juddering.

3. Make sure the tyres on the front and back are the correct widths.. 195's all round is BAD!!!

4. Check the electric mirrors work

5. Take out the ht leads from the spark plugs and check for oil on the end of them, this can indicate that the cam cover gasket is shot.

6. Lift the plastic trim at the front of the front bonet and check for rust or accident repairs.

7. Be wary of aftermarket stereo fittings. Make sure it was fitted professionally and that all the speakers in the car are working... The wiring for the "premier" system can be a nightmare if someone has chopped it and messed it up.

: Sat Oct 15, 2005 9:36 am

Thought I'd add some bits regarding the Automatic version.

1. When the car is cold (before it reaches operating temp) the auto box will not engage 4th(overdrive) - this is correct and not a fault

2. The red button next to the gear selector is used to allow you to take the car out of Park when the engine is off. My father-in-laws car requires him to press the red button even when the engine is running...obviously not right but none the less, it works and his MR2 is one of the best examples you're likely to find!

3. MANU button: This supposedly stops the autobox from changing down (maybe up aswel?). If you're approaching a roundabout with the Drive selected and the autobox currently has you in 2nd gear, engage the MANU button and if u stop at the roundabout the autobox shouldn't change down to 1st - bit difficult to explain but try it.

4. Make sure the overdrive works. Take the car or a good drive and get the car upto 60mph+ and then keep a constant speed - the car should be in 4th (overdrive). press the small button located on the side of the selector and you should see a yellow light on the dash saying O/D Off. At the same time, you should physically feel the car shift down into 3rd and your revs should rise.

5. Check gear changes are smooth. Again, my auto is a little notchy between gears but I tend to drive it in sports mode alot which may be the cause. My father-in-laws is very smooth. You shouldn't feel anything above a very, very slight jolt when changing gears. Anything violent and it could suggest a number of issues with the autobox. More can be read about this in the online BGB here: [url]http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume2/automatic_transaxle.htm[/url]

6.Check the autobox fluid. stand on the n/s of the engine bay and look down towards the exhaust manifold. Now, draw your eyes towards you and you should see a dipstick. Now, to check the fluid properly the engine has to be running AND at the normal operating temperature so BE CAREFULL NOT TO BURN YOURSELF ON THE ENGINE OR GET YOUR FINGERS CAUGHT ON ANY BELTS OR SHOCKED FROM ANY HT LEADS!!! Here's what you have to do (this was copied from the online BGB found here [url]http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume2/automatic_transaxle.htm[/url]):

a) Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the hand brake.
b) With the engine idling, shift the selector into each gear from P through to L and then return to P
HINT: Remember to depress the brake pedal to release the selector when initially in Park
c) Pull out the transmission dipstick and wipe it clean
d) Push it back fully into the tube
e)Pull it out and check the the fluid level is in the HOT range. If the level is at the low side of the HOT range, add fluid. MY NOTE: original online BGB reads to "..., and fluid" but I've taken this to be a spelling error!
DO NOT OVERFILL!!!!!

CHECK FLUID CONDITION
If the fluid smells burnt or is black in colour replace it. MY NOTE: From experience, you'll know immediately if it smells burnt!

There is also a COLD mark on the dipstick but I couldn't find an apparent guide to checking the fluid level when the engine is cold?

Finally, if the owner has no objections you can perform a diagnostic check.
This involves crossing 2 pins in the diagnostic port found on the o/s rear corner of the engine bay...it's labeled "Diagnostic" [Smile]

MY NOTE: You do this at your own risk and you should explain that to the current owner also!! I will note explain what is involved as it is outside the scope of this edition.

Just like the ECU, the autobox also stores and outputs error codes. If there are NO problems, the "O/D Off" light on the dash should flash constantly. More detailed info can again be found via the online BGB here:[url]http://www.mr2-tech.com/bgb/mechanical/volume2/automatic_transaxle.htm[/url]

Final thoughts on Auto vs Manual.
I'm now the owner of my 2nd imported Mk2 rev1 G-Limited MR2. The first was a manual and my current car is an auto. Having driven both I can see benfits and downsides to both.

Manual - Benefits
The manual MR2 is generally a lighter car. This means that it's slightly faster and in my experience returns better MPG. It's likely easier and cheaper to fix as the gearchange functions are broken down into discrete components namely the clutch and the gearbox. Due to it's simplistic nature, it is likely easier to diagnose any problems.

Manual - Downside
To my knowledge, the MR2 doesn't provide a diagnostic output when problems occur with the gearbox or clutch. That's about it really!

Auto - Benefits
I commute 60miles round trip each day. This is where the auto comes into it's own. I don't have to concern myself with gear changes...will I have enough range left in the current gear to overtake that tractor?...etc. I can concerntrate soley on the driving aspect. Obviously this is exagerated somewhat but it's the only way I could describe it [Smile]

You can rely (to an extent) on the diagnostic features of the autobox to convey any potential problems.

Another interesting point is something I've heard mentioned but never had confirmed.

Imports generally have low millages and are in good condition due to their lack of use in Japan or in real terms the lower number of miles driven.

Generally, due to the sheer amount of traffic in Japan and thus the stop-start nature of the driving, most drivers prefer automatics - agian, this is all hearsay and you should no rely upon this!

The upside of this is that the autobox is difficult to mistreat as it changes gears at set speed/gear ratios. Manuals on the other hand are entirely reliant upon the driver and so in heavy city traffic could potentially be prone to heavy clutch use and wearing of the initial gears.

I don't fully agree with all of this but thought I'd mention it simply because I've heard it mentioned before (so don't shoot the messenger!) [Smile]

Once it's up to speed, some drivers have said that the manual is actually faster due to it's very accurate use of gear changing. I must admit that when it's in sports mode, it will drive right through the rev range and only change up just before it red lines! This is excellent as I remember trying to do the same in a manual often meant I was concerntrating more on the sound of the engine or the rev counter than I should have been! Also, in a manual it's difficult to hit it just right everytime and you can change to early of too late and it's not good to constantly redline your engine or gearbox.

Auto - Downside
If anything does go wrong with unit it can be costly to fix (again, depending upon the problem). It's heavier and so makes your car slower and less economical. You'll never beat a manual off the lights but that being said, you'll never fumble the gear change during an important overtaking manouver and leave yourself in the path of oncoming traffic out of gear either! [Smile]

Summary
Having driven both I much prefer the auto. I certainly loose some economy and take-off speed but this is made up for by the fact that I can just switch the sports mode on and then drive!...I don't have to worry about it after that [Smile]

It also leave me with 2 hands to have constantly on the wheels which is ALWAYS going to be safer.

I live in a small rural village surrounded by open roads but I work in Bristol and so I can appreciate the ease of city driving afforded to me by using a manual.

Cheers

Wayne

: Sun Jun 22, 2008 8:54 am

Rev 1 Coupe had no fog lights up front.

hermit

: Thu Sep 11, 2008 10:14 am

The Rev 1 Coupe also does without:

Lumbar support adjustment on the driver's seat.
The variable speed setting on the intermittent wiper control stalk.

Peter